FOOTBRIDGE CIBELES: A TOAST TO THE SPRING 2008
For: Josefina Figueras
Victorio and Lucchino
Cibeles has turned, undoubtedly, into the most emblematic footbridge, the biggest event of the Spanish fashion. In this edition number 46 the proposals of 36 creators have paraded. The general keynote is a variadísimo mix of tendencies and the absence of spectacular changes. What notes would we emphasize face the period spring - summer 2008? Futurist textiles of high technology, pale colors, with a special toast for the lilac, the purple tones and permanence of the yellow one, victory of the garment and of the look draper, predominance of the skirts with many flights and regression of the pants cigaret before the advance of the wide pants and with the highest waist. And many bonds …
The designers of more I weigh in the Spanish fashion, grouped in the Creators' Association of the Fashion of Spain, they initiated five days of parades. Jesus del Pozo gave the exit gunshot with a collection of simple forms and of impeccable cuts in which more dosed fantasy of this designer shines now. Perfect blazers, natural textiles combined with the technological ones, and a palette of pale tones like the pink night suit that the model showed together with a dog of abundant wools dyeing of the same color … a blow of effect that caused his impact.
Modesto Lomba continues with his love for the architecture and the geometric forms with handmade touches. His vaporous flight garments with gathers and creases are cortísimos, what gives to the models an excessively infantile air … Fernando Lemoniez presented reefers of living colors - yellow, red, purple - and drawstrings adornments in the wide belts or bordering on the necklines Egyptian style. It signed up to another detail much 2008: the shoes two-color and the purses inspired by Mondrian.
The environmental temperature of the footbridge raised several grades with the appearance of Francis Montesinos. His called collection “To The quite” was of pure bullfighting inspiration, but the fantasy sometimes exceeded of this designer, has been done in this more elaborate and original collection. His jerseis of thick point inspired by the chaquetillas toreras are exquisite. Very wide skirts that almost were sending us to the new look of Dior years 50 and floral patterns in target and purple tones. A discreet touch of flowers and strawberry trees and the presence torera of Laura Sánchez dressing a suit of lights inspired by the one that Francis designed for the toreador Cesar Rincón.
And after the exceeded fantasy the serenity and the simplicity of Ángel Schlesser, the favorite designer of Infanta Helen, who did not lose once again his collection. Garments and blazers of elegant simplicity with light shoulder pads, several asymmetric necklines with a shoulder to the overdraft, important sleeves and some bonds as adornment. Roberto Torretta inclined for the short garments with absence of size and the employment of a modernized version of the moiré, a textile that has appeared again with enough frequency in these collections. Since it always demonstrated his love for the skin with the innovation of the leather strechen in clear colors or with brilliant touches. If in the past edition Miguel Palacio bet for the buttons adornments this time his adornment fetish there have been the very well handled bonds.
Elio Berhanyer with his collection number 103 bewildered once again his unconditional ones with his perfect jacket suits. His key adornment there were the roses that were substituting the buttons. Several garments of Japanese inspiration and others with Renaissance accents, quite to the rhythm of guitars and palms and with the voice of the soprano Pigeon Soria like fund. Several night suits red color as homage to Valentino. Also the red color shone in some models of the collection of Vitorio and Lucchino and in that of Hannibal Laguna, the designer moved to Madrid from the Catalan footbridges. His collection completely dedicated to the night suits, is of a reiterative but exquisite luxury: vaporous garments or of line empire, gasas, organzas, sateens, metallic threads and, along with the red color, the black and the sheens of the golden textiles and silver.
The fresh imagination of the twins Ailanto-Iñaki and Aitor - was inspired this time in the movie Blow Up. They sat in the first line of his collection to the historical model Veruschka, who was much applauded by the public. The Ailanto presented a models profusion to streaks and small rhombs, reefers with double set of buttons (a topic repeated enough certainly in the footbridge) and used another textile in rise: the moiré for overcoats and jackets.
This time the designers, always in frank minority opposite to “them“, made to notice his presence with more force. Lydia Delgado, "fugitive" other one of the footbridges of Barcelona, presented an exquisite collection in which draper was dominating the look with embroidered tulle and laces and, like final auction, a series of garments in black with bonds and gatherings of anthology that were playing with the contrast of the varied tonalities of the black when different textiles get together. Kina Fernandez presented well built collection of colonial and African airs with natural textiles and clear or neutral colors. There emphasized once again the young air and the collection full of ideas and of romanticism of Miriam Ocáriz and the designs of geometric and rectangular cut of Amaya Arzuaga in tones preferably white person, black and gray with the materials inclusion as neopreno, role of silk or metallic threads. Agatha Ruíz de la Prada was praised by a line sport along with his everlasting icons and dazzled in the end with a wedding dress splashed with silver hearts.
Last day was for the designers that they paraded to duo, although between them there are some of them that emulate to those who parade alone. We emphasize the good one to do of Juanjo Oliva with a few models bordering on the High fashion, very well built that denote an inspiration near to Pertegaz or Balenciaga. Less lucky that in other editions it was the collection of repetitive Carmen March and with details quite vulgar exhibitionists in the presentation of the models. Alma Aguilar looked again for the freshness of his color fetish: the target, for a series of garments of romantic air with English embroidery. It presented also overcoats and thread jackets in very well built very pale tones and wide pants with the waist in his place. Juana Martin dyed of rigorous mourning the footbridge again with the alone breather at the end of a few models with another color that could not be missing: the yellow one.
The award L'Oreal to the best young designer was, for the second year in a row for The Thin Buil, a duo formed by the designers Anna Figuera and Of the district of the Macarena Branches, which presented a collection in which they dominate the very loose pledges with abundant superpositions. The award to the best model was for Marina Jamieson.