CIBELES FASHION WEEK: LUXURY FOR A TIME OF CRISIS
For: Josefina Figueras
Jesus del Pozo
Victorio and Lucchino
Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada
Fifty five designers have paraded in 49 Cibeles edition. In the middle of the spiral of “everything costs” that subjugates the current fashion the signs of identity most emphasized in the parades there have been the brilliancy of the golden tones, of the spangles and of the silver sheens. The message seemed clear: since the crisis is evident in the sales that one does not notice in the footbridges. And this ephemeral luxury has drawn an illusion horizon beyond the reality. On the verge of celebrating his fiftieth edition the Footbridge has appeared like the firmest platform with which the Spanish fashion is provided today.
Ten of the morning. The curtain is opened for the days devoted to the designers of “pro“. In spite of the early of the hour the collection of Victorio and Lucchino transports us to the night. The whole collection is a holiday. The different sheens of the black – velvet, sateen, organza - get together if in an eclectic collection that puts the emphasis on the shoulder pads and comes to the old gold to cheer the entire black up. Nothing of the ancient folklorism stays of these Sevillian designers. The strict abstinence of the parade has not also anything in common with the spectacular shows that were mounting in other times.
The violent comeback of the color returns of the hand of Ágatha Ruiz of the Prada that has introduced in the world of the art with an allusion Saint Laurent and his garments Mondrian to us and has put also in check other painters as Pollock and Vasarely. Dressed in accents years 60 and the bold coloring combinations: fuchsia - orange, pink - red that was daring to present for the first time, there in the 80, the designer Christian Lacroix. Straight forms, quilted textiles. Also Valencian Francis Montesinos has been inspired by the art and has honored Salvador Dali putting his personal version of Mae West as backdrop of his collection.
Jesus del Pozo has been praised by the classicism, with some of his eternal touches of Japanese esthetics, and by a few complicated asymmetries adorning the back of his models. The geometry and the games of origami have dominated in the collection of Modesto Lomba who initiated his collection with good foot with a yellow garment of gauze degraded with a cascade of frills. Ángel Schlesser has given us a lesson of refinement and good taste showing what there must be the basic ones of the next period: different versions of “petit steal to nongo”, sober sets of skirt and shirt, dense black averages and a perfect combination of accessories with an honor position the gloves of all the sizes.
A characteristic of the Footbridge of this year is the big number of women capable of denying the paradox of which the fashion “is a men's thing inside the designers' cadre of the first line”. In a principal place we place Lydia Delgado, a Catalan designer who has fled of the rush of the fashion in Barcelona. His collection was sick to us to the reality of the life showing at first a series of overcoats of gray flannel and garments destined for the period autumn - winter that almost habamos forgotten between the proposals profusion atemporales or too light for the new station. Perfect his long suits of light silks, his pleated ruffs and his touches gilded without abusing. Carmen March dazzled with the wealth and variety of his textiles and pailletes and transported us, to rhythm of mambo, to a night Club of the Havana of the 50s.
One more collection to admire that to go it was that of Amaya Arzuaga with a few marvelous models of very elaborated geometry, perfect of line accompanied invariably of leggins with spangles. Kina Fernández was praised by a very urban fashion and ponible with overcoats of pictures of flared sleeve, jackets of leather and jerseis of rhombs, something much of being grateful between the models profusion only suitable to admire, that the Footbridge lavishes. Ann Locking in his collection “Expect not miracles” came once again to his cultural and avant-garde facet with structures much marked with wide volumes. A few garments of red sateen of asymmetric cuts gave a vivacity touch to a collection of dark tones between which they were dominating the black, the gray and the old gold.
In a recent interview the designer Juanjo Oliva was saying to me that speaking about Saint Laurent “Always his sensibility has fascinated me, his contribution to the art and to the skill. It has been an irreplaceable prop of the fashion of the whole epoch” This admiration for to the big French couturier and in general for everything regarding the High fashion there marks the trajectory of Juanjo Oliva one of the young designers every time with a major prestige inside the Spanish fashion with his creations for that there do not look the trangresión or the surprise but an agreement with the most exquisite elegance: statuesque creations in which there dominate the entire black and long and fluid suits in blue or violet gauze.
There is no doubt that the year 2009 is a key year for the most veteran of our designers, Elio Berhanyer, the man who has marked with his good one to make 50 fashionable years Spanish. In addition to his golden weddings with the seam Elio has had an extraordinary exhibition of his fashion in the Museum of the Suit and has celebrated in the Cibeles his 80 birthdays. His collection always rubbed like the perfection of a High fashion that does not admit substitutes. Suits perfect tailors, black's combinations and gilding, skins of renard black, details of galloon work and a few spectacular, some night suits in the purest red Valentino.
Between many anecdotes of these eventful days of the Cibeles the happened is in the collection of Juan Duyos who presented black and white models, corseletes wide, pants of oriental style and presented also (there the detail is) golden flat moccasins, something completely unusual in a footbridge dominated by a few heels of dizziness on which the models had to do real stunts to be able to walk. But after the assistants to the collections we had been in vilo before the "suicidal" heels that paraded incessantly, an unfortunate direction in the foci of the light did that two of the manikins were suffering a fall in spite of his flat moccasins that will spend insurance now fortunately to the first plane of the fashion.
The Footbridge uncovered many other designers. that we will be analyzing more in asmoda, especially when the autumn - winter fashion goes out of the caverns and she prepares to jump to the street as an information first hand. Only to say that the winner of the Award L'Oreal to the best collection took it Nicolas Vaudelet, designer of “The Horse” with a collection inspired by the bandits of Sierra Morena. The award to the best model was for Valencian Lourdes Coteron.