CIBELES MADRID FASHION WEEK: ANNIVERSARY WITH GLAMOR
For: Josefina Figueras
Devotee and Lomba
Ágatha Ruíz de la Prada
The Footbridge Cibeles has celebrated his 25 years of life with a tight parades program. It has not left that the bogey of the crisis was tarnishing his birthday and living has showed us a luxurious impregnated image and happiness of. There have been collections for all the tastes and sensibilities that have revealed the tendencies for the next spring. Between this infinite variety he emphasizes the passion for the 80s, with enlargement of volumes, short skirts, soft and luminous tones, asymmetries and metallized.
"The music is not ours, it is the God language and the music that they proposed to us is not the God's language". This way of transcendent Adolfo Domínguez put himself when, at the end of his awaited collection, he explained to us the reason for which the musician had not dreamed in the first part of his parade passed between a sepulchral and followed silence, in the first line, for the actress Gwyneth Paltrow and Alejandra, the daughter of the designer.
In his awaited reappearance Domínguez he bet for his typical line and style with the emphasis on the asymmetric necklines, blouses with wide sleeves, you gather and drapeados, with a tones palette stones and mallows and also with the highest shoes with platform that were giving to the set an air more 2009. Organzas wrinkled, level, gazares and the linen to demonstrate to us that the wrinkle keeps on being beautiful …
Roberto Verino, another awaited comeback, presented first a timeless compilation of pledges of his previous years to submerge later in a black and white universe. Pens, pailletes and patterns for a spectacular night, quite on a covered footbridge of petals of red roses
LUXURY AND EMOTION
The footbridge seemed that suddenly it was giving a jump to the golden age of the High fashion. The collection of José Castro was returning to the most magnificent 80, when Saint Laurent, Lagerfeld and especially Lacroix, returned to the High fashion the glamor that it had lost. Castro gained the award L'Oreal. When it finished his parade full of sateens and hire of living tones, with a deployment of a praiseworthy handmade work, the designer delivered a flowers branch to a couple of elders placed in the first line. I approached later them to know his relation with the designer, "we are his grandparents" they answered me thrilled
Another luxurious boasting and fantasy was the collection of Francis Montesinos. An explosive miscellany of cultures and folklore but in which, between colorings, volumes and dazzling exoticisms they can appreciate the pieces more commercial of Wild, from jean jackets, jerseis exquisitely and especially his models of crochet that are one of his strong points. Also spectacular, but without commercial authorizations, there were the models of Hanníbal Laguna, which recreated Madrid of the 50s, with a few wonderful lamé garments and guipur black and white. Victorio and Lucchino happened in other times to spectacular presentations, overturned all his fantasy in miscellanies and contrasts of patterns and in complicated gatherings of romantic air.
VOLUMES AND VERY MUCH COLOR
"It has been my collection most complicated to prepare" Amaya Arzuaga was showing. A completely believable affirmation after there see the boasting of volumes, geometric forms models worked with the skill of the origami, with cottons at white tones, fuchsia and gray pearl at a few creations that more were looking like sculptures that garments... Agatha Ruiz de la Prada is very far on the other hand of those architectural garments with buckets of Plexiglas that it had presented in other times but it re-edited the "Centipede", one of his historical models. Modesto Lomba resorted also to the geometry applied with abullonadas skirts and green and golden tones.
Olive Juanjo praised for geometric patterns of African origin with short minigarments with very much flight – almost minicrinolines - and Miguel Palacio presented one very well elaborated collection, with pronounced shoulder pads and “belts – jewel”, in tones preferably I marinate, black and something of rose. Miriam Ocáriz took the barroquismo of the 80 to pledges as classic as the gabardine to which it edged with a few discreet frills. The averages and the leggins, with imaginative patterns, were matching with the drawings of the suit.
This time Ann Locking, who has always demonstrated his predilection for the dark tones, has allowed to be conquered by the color. "The fashion can serve to fight the pain, to return the illusion to the people" the designer says. It has called to his collection Antidote and in her they dominate the skirts and tops of latex, the cotton garments pattern and the well built some suits of jacket of a red vibrant one. Also he has chosen for the color Kina Fernández that, together with his "right hand", his daughter Maria, has presented a few models stamped on tones orange, blue, green and nude inspired in the emotional expressionism of the painter Emil Nolden.
2Pienso very much in my clients, in for what they ask me and on this I base my work" he said to us Ángel Schlesser during the interview that we publish in this number of hbgmag.com and, that's why his fashion always finds the awaited echo. His-year-old models big simplicity, sign up to a minimalism that shares some basic postulates of the current tendencies but with a very personal style: many contrasts of white person and black, volumes by means of frills and drapeados and gray tones of delicate scales along with some flashes of fuchsia, blue and yellow. Also XlX aimed to the color in the patterns at the collection of Ailanto inspired by the images of the maharajahs of the century with the creative and ingenuous drawings of these designers.
HOMAGE TO CEILING
80 years of Elio Bernhayer turned into an emotive homage this key designer in the Spanish fashion. With his white robe of dressmaker and his inevitable Spanish little flag in the revers Elio got excited when the public put in foot was applauding strongly his long and fruitful dedication to the Spanish fashion in a warm homage. After the pass of his collection, with pledges of seaworthy style and haughty night suits in natural silk, taffetas and lace, there paraded nine of the most emblematic models of the above mentioned decades linked to Berhanyer: from tops-models of the 90 as Snow Alvarez and Judith Mascó, up to Regina Tamow, who, at the beginning of the 70, was parading for Elio in his small palace of Ayala's Street.
And as the Cibeles of this year was going of homage in homage and of anniversary in anniversary, we cannot allow mentioning the applauses that Antonio Alvarado started in his 30 years of dedication to the fashion and the homage to Jesus del Pozo with 35 years in constant contact with the Spanish fashion, which presented the collection in his show room in a splendid and affectionate act presided by Infanta Helen. Who has said that the fashion has no heart?