FOOTBRIDGE CIBELES: A TOAST TO THE SPRING 2008
For: Josefina Figueras
Victorio and Lucchino
Cibeles has turned, undoubtedly, into the most emblematic footbridge, the biggest event of the Spanish fashion. In this edition number 46 the proposals of 36 creators have paraded. The general keynote is a variadísimo mix of tendencies and the absence of spectacular changes. What notes would we emphasize face the period spring - summer 2008? Futurist textiles of high technology, pale colors, with a special toast for the lilac, the purple tones and permanence of the yellow one, victory of the garment and of the look draper, predominance of the skirts with many flights and regression of the pants cigaret before the advance of the wide pants and with the highest waist. And many bonds …
The designers of more I weigh in the Spanish fashion, grouped in the Creators' Association of the Fashion of Spain, they initiated five days of parades. Jesus del Pozo gave the exit gunshot with a collection of simple forms and of impeccable cuts in which more dosed fantasy of this designer shines now. Perfect blazers, natural textiles combined with the technological ones, and a palette of pale tones like the pink night suit that the model showed together with a dog of abundant wools dyeing of the same color … a blow of effect that caused his impact.
Modesto Lomba continues with his love for the architecture and the geometric forms with handmade touches. His vaporous flight garments with gathers and creases are cortísimos, what gives to the models an excessively infantile air … Fernando Lemoniez presented reefers of living colors - yellow, red, purple - and drawstrings adornments in the wide belts or bordering on the necklines Egyptian style. It signed up to another detail much 2008: the shoes two-color and the purses inspired by Mondrian.
The environmental temperature of the footbridge raised several grades with the appearance of Francis Montesinos. His called collection “To The quite” was of pure bullfighting inspiration, but the fantasy sometimes exceeded of this designer, has been done in this more elaborate and original collection. His jerseis of thick point inspired by the chaquetillas toreras are exquisite. Very wide skirts that almost were sending us to the new look of Dior years 50 and floral patterns in target and purple tones. A discreet touch of flowers and strawberry trees and the presence torera of Laura Sánchez dressing a suit of lights inspired by the one that Francis designed for the toreador Cesar Rincón.
And after the exceeded fantasy the serenity and the simplicity of Ángel Schlesser, the favorite designer of Infanta Helen, who did not lose once again his collection. Garments and blazers of elegant simplicity with light shoulder pads, several asymmetric necklines with a shoulder to the overdraft, important sleeves and some bonds as adornment. Roberto Torretta inclined for the short garments with absence of size and the employment of a modernized version of the moiré, a textile that has appeared again with enough frequency in these collections. Since it always demonstrated his love for the skin with the innovation of the leather strechen in c