“MODACHROME“ THE COLOR IN THE HISTORY OF THE FASHION
For: Julia Sáez-Angulo
Nobody can imagine a world without color and less in the art of dressing. It is the thesis that they support Andrés Carretero y Akiko Fukai, the commissioners of a coloristic exhibition that takes place in the Museum of the Suit until the next September 23. The sample is organized by the Department of Culture and Kyoto Costume Institute. Between the exposed suits they represent pieces of Fortune, good represented in the museum.
Modachrome explores the historical and social relation between the fashion and the color from the XVIIIth century until our days across five thematic areas that group all the suits exhibited concerning only one concept: the color.
There are great the artists and students who have theorized on the color and the fashionable designers who have been praised by some of them like definitorios of his style and esthetics. Be remembered, for example Valentino's red one; the rose electrical of Schiaparelli; the black of Chanel or the absence of every black in the agate designs Ruiz de la Prada. Or the presence of all of them in designers as Puci. Slightly similar header to say of the painters.
“The color is a life”, writes Johannes Itten theoretical of the Bauhaus in “The art of the color”. Albers was another big painter who theorized with wise move on the chromatism in the art, of which by force the fashion does echo to itself. The color reflects the frame of mind, the feelings, the adventurousness, the preferences... The color receives a symbolic value for good and for evil. The yellow one brings bad luck, say the actors of theater, because with this color Molière died. The blue favors everybody, therefore there are great those who sign up him.
The essays of the catalog receive the qualifications of “The color as pleasure”, of Akiko Fukai; “The color: pictorial expression of the fashion”, of Amalia Descalzo and Lucina Llorente; “two faces of the red one” of Claude Lévi-Strauss; “Manet, Impressions of the black, of Claude Ibert; “The fashion in the colors and in the natural dyes: The history under tension”, of Dominique Cardon and “Blue, the poetry of the space and the body” of Yasuo Kobayashi.
The exhibition “Modachrome“ of Kyoto Costume Institute appears for the first time in Madrid and prospers with the best pieces of the Museum of the Suit in Spain. “”The central topic of the exhibition, the color, is not a mere excuse, it is a central element of the clothing and his social consideration”, says Andrés Carretero, the director of the museum. “The color helps to arrange the sample and offers an esthetic approach to the speech but, naturally, he supposes an element of cultural reflection on our ways of dressing”.
In his book “The theory of the color”, Goethe insists of form hit in the ambivalence of the red one, in his opinion most raised of all the colors” – Lévi-Strauss-remembers. “Nevertheless to the being a pigment can change his intensity. For it the dignity that gives the age and in the tenderness of the youth, one can dress himself in the same color.