FOOTBRIDGE CIBELES: KEYS AUTUMN - WINTER 2008-09
For: Josefina Figueras
Victorio and Lucchino
Jesus del Pozo
The Footbridge Cibeles keeps on growing. In this edition, 37 designers have given us a vision of the fashion autumn - winter, although the months that are still missing they will be tinting details and will polishing edges. At the moment the key proposals are: the line moves between the romanticism and the architectural forms. The purple one and the blue dyes, with interfering of the yellow one and of the red one, there are the triumphant colors along with the force of the black like eternal proposal. It continues the duo of the success: white person and black. The garment is the pledge it covers with stars. Important shoulders, belts and corseletes “jewel“ highest, heels and platforms, and the skirt gaining the game to the pants.
Although there has been of everything, how in the vineyard of the Gentleman, the level of the last footbridge has been more than acceptable, perhaps the highest of the last periods. The Footbridge has been incorporating names of weight and the set has accused positively the new procurement. Also a wise move has been the inclusion of young values in the individual parades that till now were reserved to the already "consecrated" names demonstrating that there is a cast of young designers capable of supporting the prestige of not alone contest with proposals transgresoras or untimely, but with a good seam and an excellent designing.
The coloring and the environmental love of Agatha Ruíz de la Prada opened the fire. With traditional textiles, like the wool and the cotton, but with games constructivistas in the line and always playing with the volumes, the collection offered us a succession of comfortable and showy pledges presided by his inevitable hearts flowers and stars and the robots as innovation. The antidote was the following collection responsible for Jesus del Pozo who immersed us in two different worlds: that of the medieval epic and that of the futurist woman. Between an avalanche of purple, blue and green, of the Well, it presented a collection to which there were not missing the theatrical notes as the medieval fiancée with a beautiful baby in arms. Some comments have done special emphasis in these environmental details, but the true thing is that the designer presented a series of garments and overcoats full of exquisite details, with drapeados worked like cuirasses and impeccable courts.
Victorio and Lucchino have cornered definitely the folklorism of his shows although the big frills and the sleeves abullonadas and voluminous there keep on being the mark of the house alternating with skirts balloon and opening way to the winter textiles along with the levity of the organza, the washed gauze and the level very thin ones. The one that does not resign from the fantastic sense of expectancy is Francis Montesinos with his collection “I foliated It” with car patterns inspired by Formula 1 accompanied by averages of colors, in addition to garments in jewels and marabou in under and a series of night suits in red intense. But all this fantasy not desdibujaban the merit of the jerseis, the jackets and overcoats of fat point in which the Valencian designer demonstrates his practical facet and more ponible.
Juan Duyos was praised by a sober coloring with his habitual miscellanies of pictures and smooth tones in length garments up to half a leg and wide pants. Perhaps the miscellanies of more original colors of the footbridge ran in charge of Fernando Lemoniez combining the red one with the fuchsia, the yellow one with the violet one and other motives inspired by the coloring of the abstract painting by a series of straight very well built garments and with shoulder pads, some surrounding and adorned with knots and creases. The strong point of the collection of Angel Schelesser the garments, the majority are without sleeves and with a long just person below the knee and his sets of skirt and blouse. Quite inside the simplicity of the most exquisite taste compatible with the drapeados, the asymmetries, the creases and the frills but especially with the cut prefect and impeccable of this designer.
Elio Berhanyer claimed once again his andalusianism with the contrast of the white person and the black. “My Andalusia is in target and black said to me in certain occasion - covered about Vejer, the whitewashed white peoples, the old women dressed in black …” your collection, which included also strokes of purple and gray, he was provided with his spectacular night suits and his tailors of perfect cut. Another designer than tailor showed us the mastery of his style was very top Javier Larraínzar in the first part of his collection, in urban version than in the second one dedicated to night and holiday. Olive Juanjo, which was parading for the first time and very fully deservedly alone, showed us once again his models that enter almost the parameters of the High fashion.
One of the collections most praised unanimously has been that of Miguel Palacio with garments of anthology adorned with his wonderful and monumental bonds and belts and the mastery of his short overcoats of rigid textiles. The twins Ailanto were inspired by the ambience of New York for his models of unmistakable aspect with contrasts of textiles, stamped of very original flowers and irregular pleating in the night suits. Modesto Lomba presented a few very galactic models, in which it was producing homage to the architecture and remembered the seam sesentera of Ted Lapidus and Pierre Cardin. Short skirts and accessories in yellow and blue. Of a yellow shining one there were some night suits and other of holiday cut very worn out that closed the collection. An excellent designing and a determined approach to the origami.
Without quotas, only with the only quota that counts, that of his creativity and his good one to do, the women have shone strongly in this Cibeles edition. It is imposed to emphasize the magnificent work of Ann Locking for the first time alone before the danger and without being part of the duo Locking Shocking. His collection was deserved by the award L'Oreal of this year that was not awarded to a new one, but it was extensive to any designer who was presenting before himself in Cibeles. His collection of futurist inspiration, with tight silhouettes and brilliant textiles, was directed to a young and urban woman but that he looks for the originality first of all. Carmen March has been inspired by the nature, especially by the world of the insects. A collection exquisite and much taken care with surrounding forms colors autumnal and stamped on blue tones and slate simulating a fantastic trip to the center of the ground.
Ten for the collection of Lidia Delgado with Parisian reminiscences of the 20s and 30s with silk fringe adornments of galloon work and the longest necklaces. Magnificent his black suits of jacket and the night suits with oriental flavor. Miriam Ocáriz demonstrated his good one to do with structures armed with rigid textiles, games of bieses with adornments of buttons and bonds. Amaya Arzuaga, it was praised by the origami and Alma Aguilar presented a nice romantic and very feminine collection with details drapers in the one that the urban look confirms with the enriched garments and of luxurious air. Situated Murt demonstrated his mastery in the topic of the point; it presented several garments with skirts abullonadas preferably in colors black and blue ink. Kina Fernández inclined for the superpositions of forms and lines with geometric cuts and colors that go from the abstinence of the black and violet to the vivacity of the green and the red one.
In the last day of the Footbridge, he stood out for his sophisticated elegance, the collection called “One and only” of the designer Hanníbal Laguna dedicated to holiday suits and at night. This designer used a varied scale of textiles – metallic taffeta, leveled flocado, otoman, plumetis - with that he constructed his courts the bies and suits finished in small tails. Romantic and very vaporous garments for night and for the day holidays you form tulipa and evasé with maxi-embroideries, crystal illustrations and inlaid semiprecious stones.