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For: Gabriela Fockt
Christian Dior
Armani Privé
Jean Paul Gaultier
It is clear that the crisis fond of the pockets but not of the creativity. The High fashion of Paris has demonstrated the category of 20 designers who support this facet of magic and of daydream that also needs the fashion. Those who doubt still if the fashion can be considered to be an art there have the answer. The exquisite handmade perfection of the seam looks for the support of the tradition and the futurism to support the splendor of the most prestigious footbridge of the world.
The Week of the Fashion of Paris has developed in three intense days. He emphasizes the disappearance of the program of Christian Lacroix who has succumbed at the moment to the financial problems of the signature, a real pity because this designer has been in many moments of the history of the fashion the most genuine representation of the whole glamor of the seam parisién. The Spanish Josep Font has left also Paris for better occasion. As big innovation the fourth day dedicated to the most luxurious expression of the fashion: the jewelry shop with signatures as out-standing as Boucheron, Chanel Joiellery, Cleef and Arpels Goes.

This time John Galiano has been praised by the pleasures of the luxurious horseback riding. His Amazons dress wide trapeze form skirts to pictures window and short and tight jackets. A prelude of "New Look" of Dior that John Galiano has wanted to rescue sinking also in his most genuine stage: the lounges of Avenue Montaigne. The rest of the collection has passed for the areas of the most exquisite fantasy. Night suits with quiet and spectacular frills, and combinations of surprising colors: resided - burdeos, raspberry and mallow … or a symphony of gray tones. The booties and peep-toes with sculpted heels and the monumental jewels they were finishing off the set of the collection.

The Italian designer has immersed us in a lunar walk. The profile of the moon they were edging the closing of some sets and the embroidered craters and the lunar brooches were standing out on some models. The iridescent materials or the electronic blue kept on being supported in the moon in a collection that was debated between the handmade tradition and the spatial engineering with rigid and architectural forms. Armani has underlined what can never be missing in his parades because it is what better he can do: his magnificent jackets and his impeccable skirts.


Karl Lagerfeld has called to his neo-baroque collection but many of his models have looked like to us a reprint of the most classic pledges of brilliant Cocó Chanel. They dominated the soft and dusty tones: mint, lemon, caramel, rose, with accurate silver touches. On the one hand pure craft in the tulles thinly abullonados, the honeycomb patterns, ó the silver bieses that were outlining the classic jacket suits and for other the sheen of the metallized effects and the booties of futurist air. The retrospective note was in his hairstyles with exaggerated combed and in his mitts jewel,

A collection to mariachi music rhythm. Jean Paul Gaultier has been inspired in Mexico to demonstrate his art with capital letter. It seems that an exhibition that it saw in London on Moctezuma was the engine of his inspiration. Garments and complements that had filled with enthusiasm the Aztec goddesses, levels of mesh, wide hats, shawls with fringe and braided basketmakers … But all this paraphernalia of high artistic value has not dazzled any of the more purified details of seam of Garnier that we saw in an impeccable white tailor, in a tuxedo 10 and in his good elaborated pleating.

It is difficult to support the prestige of a name of big tradition when his protagonist lives still and is ready to judge implacably the wise move of his successors. This is Valentino's case that it eliminated of a pen stroke to his immediate successor Alessandra Fachinetti. Now the destinations of the mark are in hands of the designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli who have worked several years along with the teacher. It seems that they have been right, of course re-editing again some topics of the past as for example the famous person “Red Valentino” The collection has been nourished of models with superposed transparent textiles, jackets of chiffon and sumptuous night suits.
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> PARIS, HIGH FASHION 2010  February, 2010
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