THE GOLDEN YEARS OF THE HIGH FASHION
For: Mª Mercedes Álvarez
Golden years High fashion
I brought in the Night 1953
In London and until January 6, 2008 it is possible to visit of free form the Exhibition “The golden years of the High fashion”, centred on couturiers of Paris and London that his collections made between 1947 and 1957. There they bring in directly names like Dior, Givenchy, Dessès, Balenciaga or Balmain. The Museum Victory lodges it &Albert, at present the biggest museum of the world dedicated to the art and to the design.
The dazzling Exhibition gathers pieces exhibited in manikins: overcoats, night suits, of cocktail, of street, and up to designs for dolls. Also there appear photos of the workshops of High fashion, and of the clients with the pledges, as well as drawings and sketches of the couturiers, with his indications for the dressmaking of every model. There can be contemplated also the interior pledges that were taking under the garments: petticoats, strips and corsets. Very interesting is also the wardrobe of the doll Miss Lachasse. His closet contains all those pieces that any high fashion client had to possess: linen – corsets, you wrap, you come up - jewels, sets in the morning and evening, night, and incidental garments as gloves, hats, handkerchiefs, purses and belts. Quite, made to the detail and with the best materials.
The throwing, in 1947, with the line New Look in the first collection of Christian Dior marked the beginning of the most important decade in the history of the design, so much that the proper Dior baptized it like “the Golden Age” of the fashion. Newly completed world war initiated a period of euphoria that was reflected in the new style, it filling with elegance, glamor and color – the famous red one of Dior - and leaving the sad and dark reigning military air in the entreguerras fashion. So much Paris, with houses of high fashion like Balenciaga, Balmain and Fath, like London, with the impeccable tailoring of Hardy Amies, attracted the attention of the entire world and contributed to the prestige of both countries out of his borders.
The line “new look” with Dior was marking the feminine curves with his characteristic waist of wasp, skirts as corollas of flowers and shoulders rounded in exact bodies. So much his day suits, cocktail or at night there had these characteristics, like the famous model “Bar“, one of his most important designs of the first collection and that influenced powerfully other creators. In the pad of notes of the couturier curious specifications survive on this set of jacket and skirt, indicating that for the jacket there were needed 3,7 meters of cloth of shantung of silk with five buttons done to hand. The wide skirt had to be made in the thinnest wool with cambric lining. For the design 59.000 Francs were paid of then. Therefore, only accessible to the wealthiest women of the world. Between the Dior clients there were Ava Garner, Soraya, Lauren Bacall or Grace Kelly.
At the end of the 50 and beginning of the 60, the High fashion signatures diversified his production creating perfumes and complements, and going down the spheres of the millionaire clients to create prêt-à-porter models within reach of the woman of the street. This Exhibition assembles, then, the best of that epoch and it still makes to sigh to the women who visit it.