SARA NAVARRESE: SHOES WITH CONTENT
For: Mª Mercedes Álvarez
His shoes are exhibited in shop windows, as if of trataran jewels. The corporate color of the mark, the cherry, coordinated with the crema, illuminates the shop located in a central street of Madrid, where the conversation takes place with Sara Navarro. Black and white photos of the presentation of his collections, of the familiar factory in Elda, and of his grandfather with apron and sat in a chair, immersed in the dressmaking of his shoes, like a Geppetto polishing Pinocho. Another photo, receiving the golden Medal to the Merit of the hand Fine arts of the King, in 2005, stands out along with some of his creations
His aspect is fresh and simple, soft on having spoken and elegant in the movements. Sara Navarro born in the from Alicante city of Elda, belongs to the third generation of a family of craftsmen and industrialists of the footwear. His family is a proprietor of the company Kurhapies and Komfort Spain. Advised by his father, it created a line with its own name, Sara Navarro, inside the family enterprise in July, 1979, throwing his first collection in 1980 with only 22 years and bringing to the company a new spirit of design and fashion. He formed in Milan and Florence in art and design. Twenty years later, it created its own company, Sara World, where from it designs new projects in the sector of the fashion, the marketing and the promotion. It is, therefore, on the verge of celebrating six periods of five years in the sector of the fashion in the footwear.
- Sara, you studied Philosophy and Letters and Psychology in the University of Alicante: what led you to devoting yourself to the fashionable design and to give a radical draft to your future professional?
In my house there was many familiar tradition in the field of the design and the fashion in the footwear, I grew in this ambience, but I chose the Psychology career because it was interesting to me very much to study in depth the human thought and to have a solid intellectual base. I have never exercised it, because I had the opportunity to be able to be employed at creative things inside my own house.
- With 21 years you already created your own mark: does it define this precociousness to a woman with future vision in the fashion?
I began being employed very young at a line that was taking my own name. But it was not my idea. I had just finished the career and it did not have the very consolidated ideas yet. It was my father who cheered me up to that it was beginning the shooting in the world of the design, since in these years the boom of the fashion was still very incipient in Spain. My father had a wide vision of set of the moment of the fashion and the company. So, from my humanistic formation and the languages, I got directly into the world of the design, something completely different, because it has a very technical component. I went to Italy to realize an intensive course on design skill, and threw myself directly to the work.
- You have compared one day the footwear creation with the literary creation. Do not you think that the design of a shoe is any many any more enconsertado than a free abstract creation?
For me it is something very natural, because coming from a literary formation, I liking to read so much - even in an occasion I sponsored a stories contest - to prepare a collection is as to count a history, and instead of writing it in role I design it on the shoes. For example, in 1992, coinciding with the anniversary of the Discovery of America, and departing from the union of two so different peoples, I did a collection on two cultures: the symbiosis of a more primitive culture with a culture (ours) more evolved and enriched by so many History. I did, departing from this concept, a collection of shoes made with knots, links, chains, all kinds of elements that physically they join. The game of the design is to depart from an abstract idea to capture it in concrete elements.
- Your last contribution to the footwear has been to create shoes with smell: how did the idea occur to you?
I thought that a shoe with the corporate tone of the cherry had to smell...: to cherry! In fact all my creations should smell... The skin is impregnated with the perfume, is not slightly external, the aroma is a part of the material, with which the smell does not go away although the shoe is used very much and is worn out.
- but when you believe a design: about whom do you think? Do you create what you like, or for what your clients ask you?
As I say, the concept is the first thing that I have in the head before creating a collection. My shoes always have a content, there are no shoes with a strip or a thong without much ado; they have something that to count, this is the most creative part. For example, in the latter collection of perfumed shoes, I was inspired by the wonderful smells of the English gardens, and the sandals it is adorned by multicolored flowers. The fragrance in orange blossom in the collection for fiancées, obviously, is inspired in the flower fetish of the weddings.
- Do you bear in mind the fashionable tendencies?
It is clear that I bear in mind the commercial desires. If the market demands very high heel, I like offering it. Also the obligation of the designers is to open way for the changes. To the evolution of the fashion in general, I give him a concrete topic, a style, being inspired by ideas that come to me from episodes of the French revolution, of Egypt, of the industrial revolution, of the English gardens, of the Roman classicism...
- Is the crisis affecting you?
The well-known thing. And who not? But I believe that we are rather in a moment of change, in which it is necessary to consume of a more intelligent and more made aware form. It is necessary to adhere to what really is needed, the consumption has to become more rational and pay the things for what they cost. The important thing is to preserve what it deserves to the sorrow: the well made work. My shoes are handmade, with a few very reasonable margins and even scarce, and the fact is that these shoes have a very valuable labor, they are done in Spain by Spanish craftsmen who take behind the tradition of many generations. They are made of Elda, and this is a big treasure of that we have to take care the Spanish opposite to the foreign production. And more the footwear in Spain, which is an emblematic product in our industry and much valued out.
- You are present it is fairs, nationals and foreigners, your shoes are in the presentations and fashionable collections, you are in full expansion. How do you manage to be supported in the first line?
Organizing myself very well the time. I think that it would be necessary to be more present, even more, but as the head goes more quickly than the proper life, neither you can "die" in the attempt. It is sufficient in spite of supporting the balance and doing the things well.
- As woman businesswoman: what do you think of the conciliation of the familiar and professional life that so much begins being valued?
It is very important. I am right now in a Women's Association Businesswoman, of which I am a vice-president, and we work very much for the topics of the conciliation of the labor world and the relative. My company is quite of women, I understand the problems of the women and give facility so that it is possible to conciliate the work and the family. I am married, of late form, and although I have no children am quite flexible. As the company is mine, I organize my own schedule myself to come to everything without my family remaining relegated. The equilibro in the private life is important to give good results in the work.
- How is it for you the ideal shoe?
For me there is no ideal shoe, my ideal shoe is the one that is adapted in every occasion. It can be a plane, can be a sandal or can have a taconazo, according to the moment. Now then, the type of shoe that I like in particular are two: the strips sandal type Roman, which now is very fashionable, but which I have always liked very much; and the boot type skater, with closings ganchitos. I have always had these two types of footwear in all the periods.
- How many pairs of shoes do you have in your closet?
Do not believe that I have many. Earlier it had to hand like 100 pairs, but now I have become more organized and try to have those that I use in this moment: approximately 50 ó 60 pairs. Every period I am withdrawing those that I already do not put myself, but how is life practically new, the idea courts me in the head of doing some day an exhibition. They all are my designs, sneakers of sport or thongs of plastic, which I buy them.
- Must the shoe combine with the purse?
It does not have why. This is rather a fashion of the 50s. What has that credit is a harmony in the set. He can share the harmony in the color or the style of the purse, but it is already. The footwear must be harmonic with the clothing, because it can raise you or destroy the set. The footwear has a power and a force in the enormous clothing, because it can promote a very simple and very sober garment, or the best garment can sink you if evil is elected. With a shoe you can play at doing an entertaining contrast with what you go or to give personality to your outfit. The shoe influences tremendously the look, it is the fundamental complement.
- When you go for the street: are you concentrating on what the people wear?
Very much, but not only in the footwear but in the look in general.
- What are your immediate projects?
I am developing the whole line of complements of the mark Sara Navarro, with jewels, leather goods and handkerchiefs, which are already on the market. We are going to extract T-shirts and jute sneakers in summer, and a glasses line by the end of this year. Also I am employed at a collection of clothes of hearth for 2010.
- How do you relax of the work?
Uy, of a lot of forms, because I have many love. I love the sea, I adore gait with my dog, do it almost every day; two times a week I relax with the yoga. I like swimming, skiing, traveling, going to see exhibitions of contemporary art. I like to walk on Madrid with comfortable shoes, I like mounting very much on horseback. And I am an enthusiast of the aviation, in fact I lack a few hours of flight to extract the title of private pilot. Any of these things relaxes me.