ANN LOCKING: "THE ART TOOK ME TO THE FASHION”
For: Josefina Figueras
In his first parade alone Ann Locking gained the award to the best Cibeles collection for autumn - winter. A risky collection of an intense black but with iridescent textiles, pedrerías and brilliant effects. She is a designer of wide records much, compromised with the art and the culture. Now it has in portfolio to take part in the First International Congress of Fashion that will be celebrated in Madrid in October. It will be part of a Round table on a topic that she knows well “The promotion and fashionable diffusion”.
Ann Locking studied in the faculty of Fine arts of the Complutense University and was praised by the graphic design section, until he began designing accessories, first for a series of friends and later, on having seen that his designs were successful, in a very fortuitous and chance way, submerged directly in this specialty.
- your itinerary has been different from that of most of the designers, who start with the clothes and later they derive in the accessories. To what does it owe?
- if; the normal thing is as you say and it is still rarer in my case because my mother was a seamstress with which I grew between cloths and bosses and it had been logical that it had walked on this way, but I came to the fashion for the way of the art, which they go much of the hand. My passion for the art took me to the fashion.
- And since you went on from the complements to the suits?
- as I was designing complements I realized that every time these were transferring more area to the body. I began designing tops, hats and in the end I threw a teeny-weeny collection dedicated to clothes in the 5th edition of the Circuit of Barcelona. It had very good success and from there they called me - good two associates of Locking Shocking called us because then we were - to take part in the Footbridge Cibeles.
- Do you think that the fashion is much joined to other artistic currents, that it is a form of expression, like one more art?
- I think that the clothes if a hanger is not an art, that is to say with a hanging suit are not an art, but the fashion is an expression vehicle at level artistic and de facto many artists have had a narrow link with the fashion. A parade is a very preformative element, we have seen many that this way it demonstrate how for example those of the beginning of Alexander McQueen that are a few very peculiar parades in which the clothes are only an excuse to count a history of an absolutely theatrical or operatic way.
- you conceive the fashion as an expression of your interior but: What exterior influences does it have?
- The fashion is extremely rich in all the ambiences. It plays with influences of inside to out and of out to inside. We never have to lose the influence of the street because but it would look like the designers that we are shut up in our own environment. The designer cannot be a self-centered being but it must be generous, overturned outside. Any creative process has to give and has to gather, needs retroalimentarse always with trips, with exhibitions, with movies, with the same street, to be able to gather all this process.
- How will the next collection be a spring - summer that you will present in Cibeles?
- it is going to be much more luminous than the previous one. Also the summer collections are more open, those of winter are much more quiet and intimists, but in this case it is not an indicative because if the previous one had presented it in summer also it had been black. For me it was meaning to bury a past, close a door, pass to a new stage and make to gestate successfully the new trajectory of Ann Locking.
- now you are a designer and businesswoman: is it easy to combine two things?
- not; it is quite difficult … In the last six years I have worked with two financial associates, with different luck, but I think that of the errors also it is learned very much. The latter collection her alone it was me who has worked but I have my everlasting patronista, my team of dressmaking with which I have worked previously and now I am forming a new team with my assistants.
- To what type of woman does your fashion go?
- right now to a type of more elitist woman, who understands very well my esthetics and who has adventurousness to take certain pledges. My models are going to be slightly more sophisticated. I am going to stop “pret to porter” for the second "on-line" line and am going to devote myself more to a slightly sophisticated woman, with clothes to measurement and that demands a special environment for weddings, for holidays...
- when you do personalized clothes and to measurement: are your clients allowed to advise?
- if, because I have a type of client in general who enters the category of gallery owners of art, collectors of contemporary art, who understand very well the esthetics that I propose to them and that they look for special clothes for cocktail or ceremony but not a classic product. They are the people of liberal professions that they want to surprise with something riskier …
- the commercial vision: does it reduce creativity at the time of designing?
- partly if, that's why the designers we need to create the second line so that there is nothing that muddies our creativity. I believe that a balance is very necessary between commerciality and creativity because the street does not advance in a way so rapid as they advance our ideas, we have always to go ahead with the designs projected for a calendar that does not admit delays: in September for summer and in February for autumn - winter.
- How do you see the Spanish fashion at present?
- I believe that the Spanish fashion enjoys very good creative health but he lacks a more serious industry, agreements are missing between the industrialists and the designers. When I have sold of one more way it continues with commercial networks, I have had problems with the manufacturers. From the Creators' Association they try to establish more solid ties. The Association is very alive, very active and the unit is also important. I believe that it is marvelous to be employed at team. If a designer realizes well his fashionable concept and of image it does not have to be afraid to the competition of others. Each one has his structures and his esthetics and there is place for all.