HIGH FASHION OF PARIS: GLAMOR AND EMOTIONS
For: Maria Gatón
Chanel - Karl Lagerfeld
Dior - Galiano
It has been one very special week. On the one hand dyed of nostalgia for Valentino's retreat after 45 years of wasting elegance and creativity and for other the welcome to Josep Font, the Spanish designer who has taken to the footbridge of Paris the magic and poetry of his fashion. And like always this touch of teatralidad and of exoticism that acomapaña to the High fashion and mark tendencies from the most exclusive sectors of the fashion.
Chanel of the hand of Karl Lagerfeld has presented in Grand Palais a collection full of youth and dynamism with feminine super details. His typical jackets abound reinvented with miniskirts in satinwood, with quiet originals. Surrounding cloths with the forms more unimaginable sugerentes heightening the feminine figure and a few incredible carved super night suits full of original superpositions. Black, gray, white color, pink stick on a Roman stage in stone and shields Chanel. One of the collections with more entity, coherent and better presented of last times in the house Chanel.! Brave Karl!
Armani has presented an exquisite collection full of femininity. Silhouettes marking waist, waisted jackets, skirts pipe and night suits full of frills, laces, bold colors and forms sugerentes. His sculptural models are authentic works of art, each of them a different and bold creation. Superpositions so much in suits cocktail as in night suits. A marvel of creativity and originality. Something different from what had accustomed the Italian teacher to us. Big Spanish influence in the night. For cocktail they continue the gray tones but Armani innovates with deep blue and other strong colors.
Galiano has created for the house Dior an absolutely theatrical collection in his purest style, with a stage full of details of impression and reminiscences of “new look”. Utliza the whole colors palette: yellow, purple, green, ocres. He handles like nobody the suit abullonado, each one disitinto and fully of superposition. Influences of Klimt in the night suits. Spanish influence in the earrings. Gigantic and architectural shoes. Every model has entity if the same. Really we speak about High fashion in the widest sense of the word.
Christian Lacroix has offered to us a super collection, handling with art laces and brocaded cloths and flood of provenzales details and folklore. A collection much changed in the one that there were emphasizing his bold miscellanies of textiles and patterns and exact suits along with others with forms abullonadas and wide. Original super hairdos, and very well built tailors as well as tailors pants. Plenty of bonds and influence of cubist painters with asymmetric forms. Suits empire with a return to XIX English. Tonalities with reminiscences of the India, Africa and South America.
Givenchy has stood out with his creations super Balenciaga of structured super forms and to the same tempo dynamics with skirts full of frills and silhouettes marked with knotted thin belts. Colors: black, gray, white and red electrical. Organzas and gasas for the night. A singing to the asymmetry and to the surrounding cloths. Very waisted military jackets. Short night suits for forward and lengths behind with tulles and superpositions.
Valentino has dismissed with one of the most elegant collections of last times formed by 75 looks magisterial A singing to the color in tones pastries and the richest cloths. Every suit is an authentic work of art with very feminine forms but not especially exact. Patterns, brocades, a wonderful night full of color. In cocktail an influenza of the 60 and 70 turned to the epoch Audrey Hepburn. And as enthusiast finishes off an applause before the suits red Valentino, his color fetish.
Gaultier presented a collection in which the creativity was allied by the pragmatism. Chinese influence and also Spanish. Seaworthy suits pearls and embroideries and a clear predilection for the colors Gauguin. Some controversial elements but in general sew ponibles.
Finally Josep Font, the Spanish artist claimed by the High fashion of Paris, that with his collection “On the beauty” presented in the Space BCMS raised the specializing press of his chairs with a warm applause. Suits full of coloring much to the style Font, prepared and with touches of big teacher in which his "obsessions" were beating: the music, the poetry and the circus.! Congratulations toreador!