AMAYA ARZUAGA: IF YOU DO NOT INNOVATE YOU DO NOT DO FASHION, DO CLOTHES
For: Maria Candela
Amaya Arzuaga is one of our most international designers. This burgalesa of cosmopolitan look has paraded in London and Milan, and the signature that takes his name has already disembarked in China. And the fact is that Amaya not for. Parades, creation of lines of accessories, wardrobe for movies, the throwing of a wine with his name and even the creation of a contest for young artists like that they demonstrate it to us. Asmoda has interviewed it after the success of his last collection presented in Cibeles.
- His last collection presented in Cibeles has been applauded for a long time. Comments have been heard like: "malabarístico exercise of well understood craft”, or “Arzuaga always insufla a puff of fresh air to one week dominated almost always by more of the same”. Does she feel identified with these phrases?
I identify with all the effort of investigation that there bears each of our parades, the concept, the new applications of materials, colors or bosses and, obviously, it is marvelous to receive positive criticism, but what more I like is that our clients buy the pledges of the footbridge (what happens more out of Spain).
- With regard to the above mentioned comments: is Cibeles a slightly innovative footbridge?
It is not too innovative, but I believe that it is due to the fact that a part of the fashionable critics they is not interested in too much either.
- What difference is there between Madrid and London or Milan, where also you have paraded for years?
It is completely different, there they give you an empty space and you have to hire everything else. Here they make it excessively easy to us.
- There turns out to be curious the tandem that happens in you between the traditional thing (Lerma, the retired life) and the avant-garde (his designs, the use of new materials). It is perhaps the same that we see in his last collection: suits cocktail of big bonds mixed with optical fibre, fringe laser or transparent polyamide?
I do not believe that the avant-garde is possible without tradition. I like trying to reinvent or giving him new applications to the things.
- You have been inspired by the architecture metabolista of Kisho Kurokawa. Can the fashion deserve, like the big architectural constructions, the epithet of work of art?
One of my continuous sources of inspiration is the art. For me the fashion is an artistic expression, but not art. I do not believe that for it it is less important, but yes another discipline.
- In his parades, as important as the staging seems to be the designs: lighting, music, etc.: Is it part of the spectacle of the fashion? Do the designers have to know also anything of magic?
The music, the lighting, the set, the hair and the shoes do that everything one could see the parade like, that the concept of the above mentioned collection is developed entirely, for what they are almost so important as the clothes.
Since we work with a year of advance and it is necessary to excite the people, little fortune tellers of tendencies yes that we have to be.
- Every period approximately 500 pledges are designed: does not the creativity become exhausted one? Is not finished the inspiration, the brilliant ideas?
I do not know it, there are periods, there is times that everything arises only and others that you despair. The best thing is not to stop between a collection and other one. I normally use the last idea of a collection to begin the following one.
- And also: is it possible to be creative in the dictatorship of the tendencies?
Certainly, in fact the challenge helps. It is to turn to the tendency or to capture your personal vision. The final score is unexpected even for me.
- What marks the difference as for the quality? The materials, the boss, the seam...?
The design, the first thing. Then it has to be well made, to fit and that the materials work. Almost not at all …
- Speak to me about the new collection of purses that it has thrown this month.
We were taking many years queriendo to do a purses collection, but until this year we have not met on the suitable manufacturer. The collection is an extension of the collection of clothes, it splits into three parts: in the night, woman and holdalls, computer, etc. both for man and for woman.
- His career began in the familiar fashionable company Ellipse: might it to be said that his dedication to the fashion, further away even of being vocational, was inscribed in his genetic endowment?
Since I believe that a little yes. At the age of 14 it was already going to the parades. My mother always says that from much kidling I was interested in the clothes and was very special with what I was putting myself.
- Does it feel at ease with the tag of vanguardismo and innovation with which he is identified?
I feel pleased. If you do not innovate you do not do fashion, do clothes.
- You belong to the Creators' Association of Fashion of Spain. What is the situation of the Spanish fashion in the present moment?
In Spain there are the very good people, but unfortunately the fashion is a luxury and in these moments of economic suspense and with the hard Asian competition the situation is delicate. On the other hand, to be able to come to the international footbridges is expensive and very complicated.
- His most next team is formed by seven women: how do they manage them to agree in something?
Surprisingly without any problem, we understand each other very well, I have a wonderful team.
- The landing of the signature in China, the creation of new lines of accessories, a wine with his name, the project of an award for young talents in the art: does it make the Augustinian maxim his of “if you stop, you are lost”?
Saying like that seems that everything arises suddenly but it is not like that, I have always thought that to throw something to the market it is necessary to have a very definite idea and that it should contribute something. With the topic of the wine we take many years turning and looking for the suitable product. Last week we did the first tasting and I am much satisfied by the result.
The accessories are a natural complement of the collection, the clients have always asked us for them. Last year we extract the first shoes collection. It makes that of glasses two, a few months ago that of averages and someone more in a next future. The fashion evolves so rapidly nowadays, that is true, you cannot stop.
The art excites me, for what I like being close to him, although I will not be part of the jury, I do not have sufficient formation.