THE BLUE DYES DEFIES THE BLACK
For: Mª José F. Serra
Devotee and Lomba
The fashion autumn - winter 2008-09 is praised by a very feminine image with a touch of romanticism that overcomes the image of a sexy and aggressive femininity to choose for a more rigorous elegance, with a search of the detail and of the esthetic perfection. Big innovation in the textiles with miscellanies of technological fibres, geometric cuts, triumphal comeback of the point and in general a wider and architectural silhouette. The blue dyes, in different scales, threatens to the leading role of the black.
These are the tendencies that they order:
THE LINE Triumphed over the "Gothic" look with a line less given to the body. Rounded shoulders, important necks style years 40 that sometimes take the form of capelina. It continues the leading role of the buttons that gives place to double sets of buttons.
Overcoats oversize. Reefers ¾, some of seaworthy style with golden buttons. The length of the skirts is according to the economic crises: all the more longer crises, at the moment they range between the knee and up to half a leg. The traditional tailor leaves his position privileged to the sets of skirt and jacket that do not look for the uniformity but the contrast. The jackets are still short but less given to the body. It continues the victory of the garment with light textiles that allow drapeados.
THE COLORS The navy blue one sets on himself strongly in different versions: blue dyes, blue night, blue oil, blue stewardess. The black continues but not with a look minimalista but baroque with skirts of flight, bonds and frills. "Petite steal to nongo" he keeps on monopolizing an honor position in the closets, but this year some of them speak already of "petite steal bleu". The gray triumphs in all his scales, along with the red one, sand, resided and the miscellany of the year: blue and black. The gilding proves to be less aggressive and is even imposed in culottes or gabardines like the one that we see in our front creation of Elio Berhanyer.
THE TEJDOS Wools, sateen and brilliant textiles. The lace monopolizes an honor position but it becomes "cautious" and is exhibited superposed on sateen, as we have seen in the collections of Armani and of Prada. Synthetic textiles of latex and metal. And black leather for the very present pants in the collections of Givenchy and Balmain
COMPLEMENTS Wide Belts that gather the flight. For sport, masculine shoes with drawstrings. The highest heels alternate with the serviceability of the "ballerinas". Purses with short handle. Very big necklaces. The handkerchief recovers positions and comes in the shape of knots or with several knots about the neck. The hats skullcap settle in the winter wardrobe. Long gloves.
YOU COME UP WITH FANTASY With the victory of the skirt, the averages acquire a big leading role. Chanel presents them in two-color white person and black, they are with floral patterns and birds in Lacroix and Gaultier. Olive Juanjo presents red averages with black garment and Miriam Ocariz in tones cake to game with the suit.
ATTENTION TO …
The pictures tartan. They dominate in the shirts style woodcutter. In skirts, pants and overcoats.
The jerseis oversize in fat wools. They are also much lighter in wool mohair.
Jackboots over the pants cigaret (that they turn strongly) or below the skirts. The booties continue in the first line.
Long vests masculine type or in his version more hippie with leather adornments.