MIGUEL PALACE: My target is to do very personal proposals
For: Maria Candela
It has obtained important awards as the T of Telva, the Prix of the Fashion Marie Claire or the Award Woman to the best designer. Miguel Palacio has dressed some of the most envied fiancées in our country like Laura Ponte or Rosario Domecq (wife of the toreador The Juli). His principal target is to be over the tendencies that are imposed in every moment and his weapon to achieve it is an elegant design, the impeccable finished some and a deep knowledge of the seam.
Was his dedication to the fashion a clear vocation or did it come so far by chance?
In my case it was a clear vocation. I have never considered to do another thing. I finished the school, then I studied Right, but while he was studying Right it already had the clearest that what I liked and was attracting myself it was the fashion. Vocational whole.
You said who to appreciate his last collection presented in Cibeles was necessary to have “a strong and deep knowledge of the seam”, so although finished of his designs they were simple, his construction had been more complicated than never. What does he think about the designers who have never given a stitch, which they do not know anything about seam?
Not to give a stitch and not to know of seam are different things. You can have a quite deep formation of the seam, of the construction of designing, but not be capable of doing it. Anyhow, for me this knowledge is the most important. I think that I can differentiate someone who does not know about seam of anybody that yes. The result is very visible and that's why it seems fundamental to me.
It seems that the pretension of many designers at present is to cause the maximum provocation, to stand out. You do not dress a strident, but elegant woman: is not it afraid about remaining obsolete?
The truth is that not. Precisely it seems to me that the very obvious things can have a visual impact but to three minutes they lose the interest. The things that have importance, which they are of weight, are the things that are not obvious, local, but worn out with much more soaked. Happening fashionably rapidly happens when the things are very superficial and remain in fireworks. On the contrary, when you do a work with more depth it is a thing that is supported, that has a lot of more interest, which does not happen.
It has been named to his style demi-couture. Something like high fashion, but adapted to every day: does he feel identified with this denomination?
I like therefore it symbolizes and means but, in principle, I the definition that I do of the things is that they have interest or do not have it. The high fashion for much that he speaks about a big work behind, does not have why to have an extraordinary interest. There are things that do not need big working time but they have interest because there turn out to be a very guessed right idea.
What big designer would like that they were comparing him?
Frankly what I would like is to be a reference point more than to have a comparison point. That is to what I aspire. But set to compare, I would like that they were comparing me with a designer who is honest with his work, who personal and take respect as his work. And, fortunately, designers like that there is and there have been many.
His ancient partner Fernando Lemoniez has been criticized for falling down in the repetitive thing and without risking in his last collection: what do you think of this criticism?
If Fernando has been criticized for repetitive, I think that this is a very subjective thing, since when someone has a very definite personality, the repetition is enclosed a positive symptom. It means that you can be recognized by your style. It is not necessary to confuse the repetitive thing with a definite style. I do not continue the work of Fernando but I believe that it has a very pronounced and concrete personality and for me that is good and marks of having a proper criterion.
And in reference to this proper style: how would his define?
I think that one himself is defined from within is like limiting itself. It is much easier from the outside to be able to identify you. What I can say is that what I do is to enter increasingly inside my own universe. I do my work with the biggest honesty that I can. But it would not be possible to qualify to me.
Then: do I run the risk of falling down also in the topic if Palacio asked him for a woman's prototype?
(Laughs) Fortunately I believe that they exist many women Palacio and very different between themselves, but that for a reason or other one they find interesting what I do.
Until point a designer can be creative when the tendencies are imposed by so much force?
The tendencies in the end are only options therefore there is no why to be under them. My struggle and my real effort is precisely not to be under any of the tendencies that reign right now, but precisely to do a new proposal, a proposal different from the tendencies that are there.
It is not a question of going in against but of falling down in them either. I think about how to do a personal proposal that has the biggest possible reception. The tendencies that take already are, with which they do not have major interest. The real interest is to do a different proposal; this is the target.
There was saying in an occasion John Galliano who to the only thing to what it was afraid was to lose the aptitude to be surprised. You are defined as an observant, interested person, given that it happens around him: is this curiosity a fundamental factor in a designer?
I believe that yes. The curiosity is the origin of everything. If there is no curiosity, you cannot have any motivation to make anything proper. To be an onlooker is the motivation for the whole world: for a designer, for a writer and even for a journalist.
The designs that we see on the footbridge: are they those that we find later in his shop? Does the same chromatic variety happen, for example?
In principle, quite what is done for the parade is at least a part of what then is commercialized. Absolutely quite on major or minor measurement it is hung for the sale. Also there are things that do not go out in the parade for lack of time or cost but that yes develop later, although the fundamental thing the parade is.
You have designed the uniforms of the next Expo of Saragossa, gaining a contest in the participaban some of the most quoted Spanish designers, I suppose that he will feel proud...
Yes, I feel very satisfied, but as in all the contests it is necessary to see it with perspective. To gain the contest does not mean to be the best but be the most guessed right. Therefore I do not want to give to him more important than this.
What has the fashion that moves similar economic device and mediático? And in this big spectacle: who takes the baton?
I am always surprised me myself for the biggest interest that causes the fashion. I usually do not raise his interest because for me it is my passion, my life, my work; quite. But yes I am surprised that many people who is not of the way of the fashion pay so much attention.
On whom does it have the baton, I think that the baton is much distributed. We all play an important role.
What is his target on having designed?
The target for me is that the fashion has a utility, that there are many people to whom it provides a pleasure, which can be more esthetic or functional. Finally, that there is a certain group of the people who values it, who appreciates it and who wants to have it. This is the potential public and for me this is the most important thing, since it satisfies me if it fulfills this requisite.