OLIVE JUANJO: PASSION FOR THE HIGH FASHION
For: Josefina Figueras
His collection in Cibeles for the spring - summer 2008 has continued the keynote of an unbreakable admiration for the High fashion and his most emblematic names. Good-looking Olive Juanjo for a chic woman whom it could offer all the springs of his creative personality. In Cibeles his exits triumphed this year in black of an exquisite elegance, his elaborate geometry and his bold chromatic games in green and in rose.
How did it come to the world of the fashion, why did it choose to be a designer?
My landing in the fashion was completely chance. It did not have any familiar precedent with business of this type, but I had always been interested in the way of dressing of the people. When I had to decide my career and my studies I decided on an occupational training in this sense and registered in the school IADE and in Parsons School of New York.
Vd. has worked with important designers: has he learned much of them?
Of all I have learned very much and also I have learned, and this is part of the experience, that I must not do things... Of Sybila I admire the coloring, of Maria Freire everything related to the good taste in the textiles, of Amaya Arzuaga his concept of company and of international expansion. Of all I have tried to absorb the best thing.
How would it define his style?
I would say that my style is sophisticated, handmade, elegant simultaneously that balanced and simple. I try always to look for a balance and highlight the femininity.
To what type of woman does his fashion go more especially?
To a woman who is glad for the clothes but who goes beyond what she might be a simple consumer, but he wants to see and understand, know that it is well made and that there is born in mind his person and his criterion. My opinions are very open but I love the women who have love great to the fashion, that for them dressing is something important and that allow to take advice.
Do they allow to be advised by facility?
One allows to advise the woman who has criterion but who wants to extend it, it is a capture species and daca. The woman has got tired of the impositions, although the fashion has a part of soft dictatorship because it always imposes something, but it is necessary to adapt it to the proper personality.
How would it define his fashion: High fashion, seam, one “pret to porter” luxurious.....?
I would like doing High fashion if my workshop had the level of sufficient dressmaking and the machines and the hands to be able to resort to all the offices to which the High fashion resorts, but as it is not like that, I do seam but of the only way that I can do it and her is indexing in a collection of samples that can work for one “pret to porter” of high quality of high price and of very elegant level but that could work also adapted to the real process of the seam as soon as that exists toiles, there are tests and there is size. I would say that I have remained there, between these two worlds. But if I had to decide necessary for one of the two I would like doing only seam.
In his collection it has showed us the influence of the big teachers like Balenciaga, in his fashion nevertheless there are more references to Saint Laurent: What has this creator meant for Vd.?
I almost would say that it has been an obsession. When I began studying and was researching in depth on Saint Laurent I understood his sensibility, his contribution to the art, his skill. I realized that it is an inexhaustible source, which has been an irreplaceable contribution to the fashion of the whole epoch. Saint Laurent did what he wanted, did it as he wanted. His seam was working, also to sell the second lines but it was an idol for his clients.
How is his creative process of a collection?
As designer who has to do a collection every six months, the first thing is to try to be ordained. I write a small script and adapt those things at which I would like being employed: the lines, the colors, the details and I am putting in this cocktail shaker all the ingredients so that the people who helps me - stylists, barbers, shoemakers - they know well the process. I believe that there is a clear thing in my parades: that up to the stationery and the music they have a few concrete references that have as well as to see with my life. Because I feel like relating the fashion to my mental states. There is very much of me in all my collections. And finally everything stays like a small movie.
They say that Balenciaga was capable of creating and of making he only one model up to the last detail: also vd. is it capable of doing it?
Yes, but it is necessary to be humble and to stop that each one does his part. What is clear is that I am first of all a designer who is synonymous of drawing. I think that the designing notions are the most important and those of handmade dressmaking also, but it is not possible to come to everything.
Vd. has had many important awards in the latter years the Award Lóreal to the best collection of the Cibeles, the T of Telva to the best designer and so many people others...: what do they mean for vd. and his career these awards?
There are a real gift for me, there are a help for the self-esteem, and they give a lot of energy. The awards represent very happy moments that serve as joker for the bad moments, which of everything exist in the life.
In what base his victory? Which has his principal trick been to triumph?
The steadfastness, the determination, because I cannot allow myself the luxury of falling asleep in the kudos, not as for the managerial aspects, not as for level designer or craftsman. It is always necessary to keep on learning, to keep on working and having faith in one himself.
How does it see the current possibilities of the Spanish fashion in the international context?
They say that all the comparisons are odious but it is necessary to do them. Italy they have an organization and a concept of impressive marketing and the French promote his work as nobody. In these moments Spain has given a very big tug in the very commercial dressmaking in the entire world and has a very strong position in this area, but him the same does not happen to the designers. I neither am victimista nor think that the others have the fault and that there is no sufficiently support. The ancient battle between the industrialist and the designer today already does not believe it anybody, this surf is already overcome. The one that does not work is perhaps because they do not have to work. The honesty is a thing very hard and very difficult to take up office. It is necessary to have the sufficient humility to see that there are the people who is better that you or who works at least better than you.
What is for Vd. the pledge it covers with stars?
The garment, long or short does not matter to me. It is a joker that you have the women to be able to dress with the only piece. It is the pledge that can generate more volumes and be worn out of an architectural form.
What are his immediate targets?
I have a constant target that is to support me and to keep on learning. Now I am working with a tailor with a view to the fashion man, when I want to include skins in my collections it is interesting to me to work with a furrier. I have plans for fiancées, for jewels, anyway that it is always possible to evolve and to learn.