“THE CRAZY YEARS” (1919-1929) IN THE PALACE GALLIERA OF PARIS
For: Gemma Piñana
Maison Lanvin © Patrimoine Lanvin / Sylvain Bardin
Art Decó © L.D. et P. Ladet / Galliera / Roger-V.
Maison Lanvin © Patrimoine Lanvin / Sylvain Bard
Jean Patou © L.D. et P. Ladet / Galliera / Roger-V.
Lucien Lelong © Egidio Scaioni / Galliera
Madeleine Vionnet © S. Piera / Galliera / Roger-V.
The fashion of the “Crazy Years” reflects, on having gone out of the first world war, the appetite of a decade anxious for movement, speed and frenzy. The spirit of the time is the emancipation of the women and of his body. The life style is modern: plane, car, outdoor activity and devilish dances. Under the Charleston rhythm, these “Crazy Years” reveal at the same time that the calves and the knees, a fashion of short hair, a hat bell, low size and tubular form. Beyond the clichés, it is the arrival of a fashion liberated and easy to live.
A Parisian exhibition presents 170 models and 130 accessories that come principally from the palace Galliera, place of exhibition, titled “The Crazy Years (1916-1929)”. Also they can turn 50 perfumes and cosmetics. Sonorous Enlightenment, photos and movies of actuality that evoke the context of the epoch.
The sisters Callot, Chanel, IEM, Jenny, Patou, Poret, Talbot, Worth are between the big present names in the exhibition, as Lanvin, with the evocation of the Pavillon of the Elegance (international Exhibition of decorative arts of 1925, in Paris). The police station, Sophie Grossiord.
The trip of the exhibition centers on the big currents that crossed the fashion in the 20s: the modernity with Vionnet, Lelong; L'Art decó with Dunand, the painting with Delaunay, Gontcharova... and the influences that, from Japan to Russia, Poiret cuts his clothes in Russian extra, happening for Africa, they have inspired patterns and typical embroideries of these Crazy Years.
Dances, casing of a plane, sceneries of trampantojo, scenographic pictures of the exhibition are an invitation to share for twenty-four hours the life of an elegant Parisian. The evening, the purity of lines of the vestilo allied to the beautiful of the decorative effects, they reveal, in a game of lights, the lamés, the metallic laces and stripes, the sateens, embroidered muslins of pearls, jewels, pens and strass.
During the day, the abstinence: the simplicity of the cut is associated with the comfortable materials, the embroideries leave place to discreet tapes, gallons and bonds. The woman of the 20s experiences the gentleness and utility of the traced clothing of the masculine wardrobe or sports-sweaters, sets, pajamas-. It knows the drunkenness of leading a motorcar, the freedom of there being cut the hairs, the makeup, to smoke in public and adaptation in "garçonne".
Palais Galliera (10, avenue Pierre 1st of Servie – 75116 Paris)