CHUS BURÉS: THE SEDUCTION OF EAST
For: Josefina Figueras
His experiences of continuous innovation, they have given him an exceptional position in the world of the fashion of the jewels. Chus Burés is a lover of the oriental culture. He considers Thailand to be his second homeland and the oriental culture has influenced his personal vision of the design and the miscellanies of skills and materials. It has mixed metal with silk, silver with bamboo and has used materials as unusual as the sugar and the chocolate alternating with the gold and the silver. For him the jewels are the ideal support to express his ideas.
Chus Burés receives me in the principal lounge of his Mountain study of the street of Madrid where a “organized disorder” is breathed with infinity of books and leaflets carefully piled up in the soil. Abstract pictures in the walls, halogenous lamps and a long couch filled with cushions of tones lilacs and beiges …
How did your professional itinerary start?
“I was born in Barcelona and you already know that there everything related to the design has a big force. I studied Design and Interior design and soon I understood that the binomial fashion and corporal language could express itself very well across the jewels. I started very young in the classic jewelry shop and further on I did jewels for designers until I was making way for myself with my own mark.
When did you give the jump to Madrid?
It was in the 80s, the years of the “action of Madrid”. The designer Manuel Piña entrusted me a collection of jewels that appeared in the Contemporary Art museum. It had a big success because it turned out to be very innovative, it was breaking the idea of that the jewel had to be with beautiful materials and also the concept that was had on the accessories. They hired me for six months. Later Pedro Almodovar entrusted me designs for his movies, I designed the pitchfork “Killer“ for a movie of the same name and remained already in Madrid starting with the study, with the shop
I believe that you travel very much round the oriental countries and that Tahilandia is almost your second house...: how did you begin your work in this country?
Twelve years ago a delegation of the government came to Europe tahilandés looking a designer that jeweler of this country will impel the creative area of the industry. They were in Paris, Milan and Barcelona. The Foundation of Barcelona P.C.D communicated me with them, they invited me to give a seminar in Bangkok and after a few weeks I received a fax inviting me to do a serious project for 12 select designers of the country. I did the project “The Living Workshop” of a year of duration, transported my study to Bangkok with the idea of that the designers were incorporating into the design of my collections using my methodology. We form a team being employed all at the same direction and it was a success.
Your stays in Tahilandia: have they influenced very much your career?
Immediately after this first year I discovered the whole potential that Tahilandia had, discovered the Asian culture. It was a very interesting experience. Since then I have not stopped going, not only to produce jewels - that certainly are not cheaper that in Spain as they think many - but to do projects collaborating with universities and with schools of design and one without achievements end to encourage all over the world the craft tahilandesa. Tahilandia has turned into my second homeland
Is Cúal you principally inspiration sources?
My inspiration source is located in a stripe that goes from the culture of my country to the Asian cultures. A multicultural miscellany that offers me the possibility of living through a process of constant investigation that then I can apply to a character project purely culturally or commercially.
You work with very varied materials: are cúales those that more you are interested in?
I am interested in all the materials because every idea needs a specific and suitable support to represent it and to give him life. I like a jewel realized in synthetic materials but also the realized ones in platinum and diamonds of the biggest purity.
Do you believe that today the jewel keeps on being considered like a wealth symbol?
No, today the jewel is a small fetish, an adornment that one watch with very much zeal. There are small objects that accompany you along your life that you use them to adorn you, to attract attention, to seduce, because the corporal language says very much on his user. The jewelry shop is already not a sample of the power that one has but it is a sample of the taste and the culture of the person that the ride.
In your jewels: are all the miscellanies possible?
I like mixing and using unusual materials. I have used up to sea water for my rings, introducing the water in departments methacrylate levies. Also I have come to the crochet with threads of gold and silver, in fact the textile in jewelry shop is a centenary tradition that is in many cultures, in Turkey for example and in the Asian Southeast.
Where do you consider who centers the value of the jewel?
For me a jewel done with role can be so wonderful as a jewel done with platinum or diamonds. The value of the jewel is precisely in the idea and in as it has been solved, in what it inspires, in the soul of this design. I like the jewels realized in synthetic materials but also the realized ones with platinum and diamonds of the biggest purity.
Today do not the people already see the jewels like a product to invest in him?
No, the idea of buying for example an alone diamond to invest already is not very current. The people want to enjoy the jewels, they like taking them, they have an opinion. The whole world is informed by means of magazines, the networks of Internet, the television. In our country and in general there is a design culture much higher that earlier, they have a criterion and value also things that are not expensive.