GOOD-LOOKING NEW YORK FOR THE FEMININITY
For: Maria Gatón
Oscar de la Renta
The tendencies that New York contributes to the fashion spring - summer 2008 across his emblematic Week, about which we inform you in the previous number of www.hbgmag.com, they coincide in general with a comeback to the superfeminine silhouettes. Romantic women with a certain air retro years 40 and 50 in some designers. Along with the American outstanding figures as Donna Karan or Calvin Klein we knew the tendencies of some assiduous foreigners of the footbridges neoyorkinas like Oscar de la Renta, Max Azria and of the only Spanish designer: Custo Barcelona.
“Every collection is an illusions history” the French, assiduous designer commented to New York, Max Azria. His collection enters the river beds of a romantic woman for the spring - summer 2008. It presented silks of clear tones, knotted belts of leather, sateen I degraded, garments pleated with change of colors, embroideries and crochet hook in contrast with silks in raw, beige, pink salmon and gray. Combinations of garments of suspenders with T-shirts, overcoats of organza of classic air and grunge at the same time, but especially a superfeminine style. Garments desestructurados, skirts of sateen and overcoats with a clear Balenciaga influence.
Lacoste has celebrated his 75 years in the fashion with a singing the 40 and 50. White pants, belts wide and turned to the swim suits of low cut. White, dressed hats word of honor, surrounding gabardines and many changes on the typical pole Lacoste with a new colors palette.
Ralph Lauren celebrated his 40 years in the fashion with a tendency "dandy". Black and white exact pants, brilliant colors, laces and garments inspired in to the purest Spanish style with flowers and frills. Between the assistants we saw Plum Sykes, Sarah Jessica Parker, Dustin Hoffman, Robert de Niro, Diane Sawyer, Diane von Fustenberg, Carolina Herrera and Vera Wang: Who gives more?
Marc Jacobs offered us a dynamic and coloristic collection in which they emphasize the contrasts two-color and the patterns. An air retro in the flared minigarments and the cardigans and especially many surprising effects: shirts with every sleeve of a different color, lengths desestructurados and a coloring impactante with mastery of the orange, yellow, green and blue ones. The shoes move away from the classic combination of the white person and the black to join living tones of big contrast.
Donna Karan, excellent symbol of the woman neoyorkina, good-looking this year for the surrounding gabardines, wide belts, dressed desestructurados with orange and blue patterns and some models style safari.
Michael Cors introduces us in the happy American years with his happy and optimistic life. Models full of coloring between which the intense blue and the sailor dominate. In the collection we saw Aerin Lauder, so spectacularly as always. Diana von Fustenberg inclined for the purest style lady with surrounding garments of original forms and Vera Wang presented a collection rich in cloths of more rigid aspect for the day and in vaporous textiles for the night.
Calvin Klein, with his creative director Francisco Costa, is praised by the silky garments in blue and gray tones with an air between Zen and minimalista and bets for thousand different targets in all his possible versions: equal none to other! An end difficult to verify but that it needs adventurousness to announce it.
Oscar de la Renta, believer as always to the high fashion tradition, presented a collection full of delight, very fluid with new textiles of lúrex and very pronounced forms. Carolina Herrera another emblematic figure of the fashion of big tradition, presented a quite sophisticated collection that separates a little from his habitual style in the one that there dominate the straight lines, the floral patterns and many bonds.
Tommy Hilfiger handled very well the targets and blue ones coming to the classic forms and desetructuradas with skirts and Bermuda shorts. Other designers as L.A.M.B presented new versions for the classic black and white suit. We loved also the Port creations with a spectacular African air, Luca, Luca with superfeminine silhouettes in colors cake, and Zac Pose much wanted in USA and Proenza Schueler.
I have left like “golden brooch” of my chronicle the pass of the Spanish only one that was parading in the Week of New York: Custo Barcelona. According to its own words his spring - summer 2008 collection is his “more special and evolved” collection. Along with models of classic cut it did a boasting of coloristic geometry, of graphic embroideries and of metallic textiles and presented for the first time long garments. Looks the neoyorkinos liked his 78 and they increased even more the international prestige that this Spanish designer already has in the world of the fashion. mmmm