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THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOON
For: Sonia Sbolzani
© Museum of the Suit
© Museum of the Suit
© Museum of the Suit
© Museum of the Suit
© Museum of the Suit
© Museum of the Suit
It is the postmodern thing, beauty, and you cannot do anything on this matter! The famous phrase of Humphrey Bogart has escaped from me in the movie “The last threat“ to introduce the topic of up to where there has come, at present, the fashion as reflex of the convulsions of our society. Volume borrowed the sociologist Gilles Lipovetsky a few words to define the fashion: "A way of perpetuating a mythical way of thinking in the heart of the cultures mercantilists and desacralizadas“. But does it stay yet a little of mythical in the today fashion?
Fortunately, the answer is affirmative and the merit is ours, of the Italians, that often we can understand the esthetic frame of mind and, especially, the importance of the theoretical and cultural aspects that are behind the spectacular nature of the fashion, for many considered the only magnet of this big industry. 

For years some productions of the fashion are placed, with decision, at the head of the conformist and traditional thing, without risking anything in judgments or digressions, swimming between creativity and systematization, a search that, I want to make clear, I do not reprove. Others have tried to be placed in the individual experimentation, implying the materials more and more exotic and technological under an optics, more than esthetic, functional and healthy. One of the tendencies of nowadays is to swim between two waters and there is consolidated, for the reflex of the homologation and of the global esthetics, the desire to recover the value of the handmade, personalized work, in which it counts the detail. I wonder, in this point, if in not distant future the wall will fall down, already very limited, that the prêt separates to porter from the high fashion... 

They all move in a galaxy of precise, even iconographic cultural references, without much ado aspiration that exhibiting something truly novel under the sun. Will he be his accomplice the economic crísis that there are lllenado of suspense all the ambiences? 

Only a few years ago, we would not have imagined that the avant-garde of the style would be to confirm traditional models and hundred again for hundred bourgeoises, of sober and light taste; that we would recover the imitated masculine identity and would re-discover the value of the elegance. And to think that those stylists, on behalf of an espontanéidad now already impossible, there was destruído the world, to report to shreds the discomfort, feminizándolo and confiscating it sexually!. Who remember certain advertizing images impactantes, ambientadas in places scantly towns of ambiguous creatures jauntily dressed? 

Of some time to this part, it seems to me that on the footbridges they have turned the authentic physical characters: men who are already not the parody of an imaginary male and women who do not play at interpreting any more to a Lolita with lunatic fits Perhaps the fashion it was really needed from all this: of changing the vision angle, of head putting below the perspective but feigning that everything is still always equal. This cautious tightrope walker claims the same members of the establishment, so that they stop turning out to be more and more divided by unsolvable tensions, doubtful even about whom he is the speaker to whom they want to like more. 

The same we can say with regard to the mass media that, while they keep on putting the emphasis on the luxury and on the sleep, they cannot ignore for much time what the Italians we call “the dark side of the moon“: there has come to them the moment to study in depth not only the aspects tied to the economy of the business of the fashion but also, and especially - every time more - the relative ones to the ethics and to the inclinations of the taste the sociocultural sense. 

In short, that the "machine" of the fashion has become huge in a few decades and has become too sufficient and insensitive to the new demands and to possible forms of dissent, therefore he is finishing with betraying the idea of himself as flexible and open organism. The risk, especially now when the international economic crísis has turned it more vulnerable, it is to lose the control of this machine thrown at an excessive speed. To decelerate, on the other hand, might cause the fín of many. How to go out of this anxiety? Some possible remedies exist in spite of everything as they are: to listen to the respiration of the world with major sensibility, to reread with different look the proper history and to consider it in view of the proper ideals of the men and of the professionals, to keep on imagining a continuity in the innovations. 

Good renaissance, fashion!
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> PEACE, ECOLOGY AND FASHION February, 2010
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