ELIO BERHANYER: MORE THAN 100 COLLECTIONS
For: Mª José F. Serra
The fashion of Elio Berhanyer continues his impassive trajectory before the passage of time. In his creative baggage they represent more than hundred collections in which, today like yesterday, they dominate the classic style and the good one to do that they were making him famous, prepared with constant fits of innovation and of fantasy. His most spectacular models rhyme very well with the gale of holidays that approach … Elio bets for a type of cosmopolitan elegance, always at the edge of the High fashion, which has taken shape once again in his collections of this year.
The perfection of his jackets, which called one day the Balenciaga attention they appear in his collection autumn - winter in tailors with skirt or pants and jackets short and carved in tones target, beis, gray and black. The black and white Andalusia, which Elio wants to represent in his collections, stood out as always like an invariable contrast duo in creations for the day and for the night.
The black dominates in the collection “to alone” but a happy black who enjoys himself in garments of level or velvet – his favorite textile - adorned with embroideries and jewels or looking for the contrast of the silver tones. Some of his designs are a reprint of his previous successes, a system that Saint Laurent had adopted also often in the latter years. He uses skins of mink and of fox for his overcoats and the bonds are a continuous adornment in his day or night models. Also it resorts to the edged ones.
Along with the leading role of the black flares appear of red – a homage to Valentino - and also dazzling purple some. The necks and revers Cervantine style are another key element that they alternate with skirts designs abullonadas, like a clear wink to the most current fashion. As details or accessories of big holiday we emphasize the shoes of level black with small sheens in the heel and the top and the fleeting detail of a few gloves in target or in red contrasting with the black. The apotheosis of his winter collection was the fiancée with a white garment with brocades and jewels with neckline and transparent sleeves and a discreet tail.
His last collection in Cibeles for the next spring 09 did special emphasis in the straight forms that they pass to the volumes. The coloring becomes more vibrant and the adornments with pens – insinuated already in his winter collection - become more frequent. He looks for contrasts of impact as the yellow one and for the electrical blue and for the night it uses gasas of only one color or with floral patterns. His spring collection presented in Cibeles was including 60 models, but the bulging finished collection of his workshops comes to 220 pieces. The balance of this year of a tireless and creative designer but also realistic that has been able to touch with mastery in every moment the situation and the absurdities of the Spanish fashion.