CIBELES: RECORD OF PREMIERES
For: Josefina Figueras
Devotee and Lomba
Jesus del Pozo
The mythical Footbridge has released name-Cibeles Madrid, Fashion Week - has released a 14.000 square meters new space in which for five 52nd designers have showed his creations with 40 parades in two alternative footbridges that were representing the glamor and the avant-garde, and has released especially the early vision of the fashion of the future-primavera-verano 2009 - that will move in a universe of soft tones - pink, sky blue, beis makeup - skirts of wide flights, entire victory of the garment, asymmetries, light cloths and a frills bacchanal.
The Footbridge has started by seeing the life of color of rose. Modesto Lomba, who opened the collections of this year, chose rose for many of his architectural garments and combined this color with other soft tones as yellow straw. The flights of his skirts were helping up with the help of the cancan type years 50 filling with superposed frills. The passion for the rose got in the inspiration of other designers of different styles like David Delfín and came to the taffeta suits up to half a leg that were the best of the collection of Lydia Delgado.
Some of the veterans have introduced round changes in his style. Francis Montesinos, in spite of the baroque inspiration of his collection “Urania“ fills of cosmic references, has introduced a commercial draft in a great part of his marvelous collection by means of wide skirts, huntresses, garments stamped with asymmetric shallows without his incursion being missing in the crochet hook pledges that there are one of his best tricks. Also it surprises the trajectory of Victorio and Lucchino that have left at thousand light years his folkloric fervor to get in a more realistic fashion of structured and perfect line, with a garments recital in sateen between which they were emphasizing the purple color, the patterns and a big frills profusion, but without parochial reminiscences. It is seen that the economic crisis does miracles …
The footbridge breathed in many moments High fashion airs, as in the collection of Carmen March that type has come to organic textiles for his proposals western with miscellanies of pictures of different sizes and others with references to the style "new romantic" of the 80s. Impeccable his white shirtmakers with belts of brown leather. In this line of elaborated seam there registers also Juanjo Oliva that has received the Award L'Oreal to the Best Collection with a few pledges of elegant architecture, without superfluous details and with an excellent employment of a big variety of textures. But if Olive was showing a seam of high flights in his collection number 10, a veteran designer Elio Berhanyer, the authentic teacher of a seam of the biggest level, was presenting his collection number 106 in which it was re-editing some of his previous successes and towards a new boasting of the perfection of his style. The public put in foot wanted to honor with his applauses Berhanyer his 50 years of dedication to the fashion.
The whole delight of a young fashion and "ponible" we find it in the nice collection of the brothers Ailanto inspired by the creative world of Matisse. With light textiles and fresh and soft colors - in which was standing out the pink one - these designers played with the pledges superposition with the drapeado of the tunics and showed his skill in the patterns design naif and in the handling of the streaks of different colors. In this line of a young fashion and without complexes we can place the creations of Alma Aguilar, the majority in target and with details drapers as there are the laces and the lorzas. Miriam Ocariz came to the natural style of a few models of pearly dyes and light metallized sheens and to the contrast of luminous patterns with the rigidity of the pictures Wales.
He always emphasized like the taste descomplicado and exquisitely of Angel Schlesser with garments drapeados and the tuxedo, in different versions, like a last homage to Saint Laurent. Skirts with forms balloon and sorong and soft colors: sand, kaki, champagne and: as not! the pink stick. Another veteran Jesus del Pozo nourished his collection of air and superlight textiles as the gazar and the silk with a clear domain of green and blue overseas with iridescent and tones I degraded and an acertadísimo movement of fringe and pleating. Javier Larrainzar resorted to the gasas and organzas emphasizing his floral patterns in a wide and summer palette.
The sense of expectancy and the temperature of the footbridge raised several points with the collection of Amaya Arzuaga with a few suits as spectacular as taxable, but it is already known that this designer plays in spite of dazzling in his parades to offer later in his shops much more accessible models. It was praised by the volumes, with maxi-bonds that were looking like a sculptures and optical fibre as fringe. Much sugerentes and bold men were also the proposals of Ann Locking who consolidated his success alone and who started with a series of straight garments of fluid cloths to choose later for the volumes and a few incredible cascades of frills.
In this wide framework of collections and designers we can emphasize the spectacular bonds, something repetitive from period in period, which there lavishes Miguel Palacio and the wide overcoats style Balenciaga that they raised the tone of the collection, page and little imagination of Fernando Lemoniez. Kina Fernández showed a fresh and very feminine fashion with night suits inspired by the art-deco and adornments of jewels. Juana Martín changed his proverbial love to the black into a collection almost completely into target with inspiration garments years 70 of forms minimalistas or in the style of baby-doll. For the night it gave one I overturn whole and it presented suits of an absolute black. We emphasize also the vitalism of the collection of Situated Murt with a series of basic much ponibles, playing with stronger colors like the turquoise and the yellow lemon and raising the tone of rose up to the thresholds of the fuchsia. Hannibal Laguna filled his collection of night silhouettes with suggestive drapeados, a marvelous chromatic harmony and sophisticated drapeados.