MIRIAM OCARIZ: "I HAVE PLAYED WITH THE CONTRASTS”
For: Paula Gárgoles
Miriam Ocáriz, this from Bilbao designer who became famous with the graphic patterns and the bonds, is considered to be one of firmer values of the Spanish fashion. He has spoken with www.hbgmag.com on his collection for the next period autumn - winter presented in Cibeles where we are dressed in style lady, the predominance of the gray and the pink petal. The strong note was in the handling of the volumes creating vaporous garments or masculine overcoats with a coquettish bond behind.
How would it define his last collection?
It is a contrasts collection. I have played with the opposite ones, for example with overcoats of military style of brilliant golden color with the waist well marked with a belt corset
What does he consider to be the most innovative thing?
It has been much a style Miriam Ocáriz but it can that with a treatment more thoroughly than the volume. Be already with textiles like the skin or the silk offering vaporous garments and up to the feet. I think that for the night, the long garment is very favoring and very feminine.
In what has it been inspired?
In everything, in the street, in the museums, in my past collections. At the time of designing everything it is capable of being an inspiration source
He has said that to design well it is necessary to have knowledge and sensibility: Where does it find them?
A designer has to be an observant person. I find the knowledge and the sensibility looking at everything what happens around me. We receive the reality and transform it into forms and into garments. After the observation work, the rest is a work and work.
He lives in Bilbao, far from the center of the fashion of Madrid. From the outside: How is the Spanish fashion seen?
If, to live out of Madrid offers me more perspective at the time of working. I believe that the Spanish fashion does not risk and that harms all of us. Cibeles is too commercial, very few leave of the script and I do not like.
After studying Fine arts: would he like seeing his collections in a museum?
Skylight that yes. Although I do not defend that the whole fashion to be an art. Valentino's garment if it is an artistic work but not the T-shirt that I bought to myself yesterday. I am in favor of that the fashion and the art establish dialogues as enriching as of including in the temporary exhibitions of the Museums, retrospective of fashionable designers...
His bonds that they have meant in this collection?
There are a flirtation touch, like a wink. The bond has always been a very feminine element that I like to rescue in my collections. In this collection I have included it behind the overcoats of masculine cut to make to establish this game between the structured and firm overcoat and that in the back an entertaining bond was appearing.
From the point of view of the woman that the ride: how must it be considered to be the fashion?
It must be a reflex of his personality. The fashion is a set of things that penetrates the limits of the clothes, it is a way of being in the world and only he acquires meaning when it goes down to the street and serves like form of expression. A woman must not feel never determined by the orientations of a designer and if it does it the fact is that it is not intelligent. He must look, first of all, for what goes with his personality and his tastes.