HIGH FASHION: THE BIG SPECTACLE
For: Gabriela Fockt
Jean Paul Gaultier
Let does not cost money... A good maxim to frighten the bogey of the crisis. The High fashion of Paris has faced to the reality with a luxurious boasting and fantasy. Between the 25th and 28th of January the big designers have showed his proposals spring - summer 2009. Orientalism, inspiration years 30, giant flowers, embroideries of fable and a competition of mastery in the drapeados. The life continues …! that the spectacle not droop!
DIOR has dived in his origins as the title of the collection shows “More Dior that never”. Galiano, whom they call in Paris “the Spanish-English one”, has been inspired by the founder of the mythical signature trying to overcome it in glamor and eccentricity. The flights of the skirts “new look” have turned out to be exceeded by the addition of big planks, gathered meters of criolina and affected frills. An ambience between Victorian and Flemish has invaded the Museum Rodin before the models inspired by the silhouettes of Van Dick and the colors Vermeer. The miscellanies of white person and black were alternating with the tones bluish, yellow and red gray. Hats with pens and a boasting of embroideries of the purest craft
CHANEL dressed the target fashion to demonstrate that it is this the color more "fashion" that The room exists she was turning out to be decorated with big white role flowers. Many roses and handle quite camellias, the emblematic flower of the big "mademoiselle". Karl Lagerfeld has covered to a decorated minimalism and the outstanding figures Chanel have turned out to be interpreted with tailors with skirt up to the knee, and very short jackets almost "toreras" Inspiration in the figures of china of the century XVlll and a clear authorization to the oriental style that invades the fashion in the form of the shoulders and in the hairstyles and floral hairdos acts of the Japanese barber Katsuyo Kamo. Some small details in black: borders, buttons, belt, were breaking the monotony of the pure target. For the night tulles and organzas flowers sown fields.
ARMANI played loudly the letter of the orientalism without resigning from the femininity and mastery of his peculiar style. His tailors, of austere colors and straight skirt inspired in the 30s were showing the "oriental" touch in the shoulders “pagoda“ that were transporting us to Shangai, whom by something they call “The Paris of this one”. “I am sure that this collection will be a success” it had predicted Armani. The night suits with laces, small tails, you scale guy mermaid and drapeados asymmetric they transported us to the red carpet of the Oscars.
LACROIX sent to us on one hand a century XVlll and for other one to his successes of the 80s when it was triumphing like “the designer of the extravagant elegance” and was summing this way his position up before the fashion: "I am Latin and feel fascinated by the strong colors, the barroquismo and the overloaded jewels; also I believe that also the bad taste has his rights”. His contrasts of patterns and colors in his collection spring - summer 2009 were eccentric and unsuspected. His love by the Spanish topics turned out to be reflected this time in a few suits with miscellany of spots of different sizes and in the hairstyles of the models. The skirts, you extend and over the knee they allowed to see lace averages or with brilliant adornments combined with shoes without platform bundles to the ankle. The oriental touch was discovering in some silhouettes type “Pagoda“. The earrings style “Creole“ recharged with stones and brilliant they were simply "monumental".
VALENTINO was releasing again designers. This time the mythical signature was resting on the work of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciolo that they turned carefully to the basic topics of the legendary founder of the signature who is not ready to that his brilliant work droops. Red Valentino shone in the footbridge together with a boasting of very well built drapeados, asymmetries and pleated frills. The giant flowers - one of the most repeated topics of these collections - alternated with the embroideries of crystal, the bonds and the fringe.
ELIE SAAB was praised by a real recital of soft tones. Beige, cake, violet, for a few models in which it was dominating a certain minimalism neutralized with wide brocaded corseletes and giant flowers. Four black night suits with lace adornments broke the soft coloring of the collection. The oriental touch was feeling in some overcoats of Japanese air of form kimono.
GAULTIER did a boasting of calligraphy and arabesques. To be located his rubric appeared on a giant screen. The designer allowed to be seduced by the tradition and the Spanish culture. Some skirts style toreador, a garment simulating a fan and other "folkloric" details emphasized in the collection that it was thinking up with a coloring lavender, makeup and green jade. The ancient muse of Lagerfeld, Inés de la Fressange, it took part in the collection and showed two garments tuxedo.
JOSEP FONT was doing his third incursion in the world of the French High fashion. He did not defraud and demonstrated that he could use his talent without having to excel itself every time with excessive fantasies. His good one to do saw reflected in light tones garments sand and fluids drapeados. The night sofisticaba with adornments of pens of organza and of marabou. Very original his presentation of 10 dolls raised to a rotary platform with allusions to a marine scenery.