CIBELES DISCOVERS THE FASHION TO US 2007-08
For: Mª José F. Serra
The collections of 35 designers who paraded in the last Cibeles edition, dyed the black's footbridge. It is seen that the “entire black” will be the touch of domineering glamor of next autumn - winter, the common note of a fashion that moves between memories of previous decades, futurist visions and romantic fits.
There shone, once again, the mastery of the consecrated designers that they monopolized the first three days and emphasized, in the remaining days, the avant-garde ideas with cultural borders of some young designers, although others signed up to the esthetics Balenciaga with a classic style and visions of high fashion.
The Cibeles "heavyweights" allowed to feel his influence from the first hour... Antonio Pernas has given a draft to his inspiration sources and has resigned from his minimalism and his pledges sesenteras to be inspired in the cinematographic prima donnas of the 40s. Long overcoats - robes, very wide pants, trapeze form skirts and very much black that, occasionally, it joins with the red one. Modesto Lomba inclined for the architectural lines of an ultra-repeated trapezoidal line, and with excessively short skirts that descabalaban somewhat the proportions of the design. The best thing there was the clear mastery of his drapeados and gatherings, very worn out details and of a very personal craft.
With a staging of flakes and covered with snow sceneries Jesus del Pozo presented a splendid collection with commercial borders but without resigning from his oriental touches, from the perfect combination of asymmetries and from the juxtaposition of pledges of comfortable textiles. The long and very wide culottes filled the panorama of neutral tones with mastery of the browns and resided. The serene elegance of Ángel Schlesser shone in the perfect designing of his overcoats and jackets, the straight garments with flared sleeves, the straight skirts of high size. Quite in black and gray tones with some light touch of rose and orange and the contrast black - blue dyes, one of the favorites of the fashion of next autumn - winter.
In his collection number 102 Elio Berhanyer demonstrated that he keeps on being the "teacher" and an indisputable modality of the Spanish fashion of almost five decades. It got excited when we offer his unconditional ones with him at the end of the collection that provided us his impeccable tailors, a luxurious inspiration in the Spanish classic painters and the perfect use of the black velvet the color king of one night sometimes overturned in embroideries, sheens and pens. For Francis Montesinos the fashion keeps on doing very good crumbs with the art and the folklore, a present motto in his models with embroideries, skins, a lot of gilding and patterns with Moorish reminiscences.
Miguel Palacio offered to us a seam lesson with a collection well structured in that trapeze was discovering the trace of Balenciaga:.pequeños dressed detached of the body, game of volumes and a few sleeves very well studied to tone with the obsessive perfection in the sleeves of the teacher of Guetaria... His ex-associate Fernando Lemoniez continued with his good dosed volumes and his love for the supreme quality of the textiles. The eccentric miscellanies were the principal emblem of the collection of Javier Larrainzar in which it joined the serenity of the English country with the jackets moteras and the abstinence of the tweed with gallons and golden elements. A real styles mix in that the exquisite elegance of this designer was beating, in spite of everything. For Roberto Torretta the leather keeps on being the material number one used with profusion in a sober and commercial collection with pants cigaret, jackets and Levites most of black color with light authorizations to the purple one, to the gray lead and to the brown. The twins Ailanto differed in his inspiration in the nature in full spring splendor and in his nice geometric patterns.
The Sevillian duo Victorio and Lucchino they have left definitely his folkloric exclusivism. In his magnificent collection they emphasized the jackets carved with wide belts with incrustations of golden metal, the skirts with flight. Quite: how not? inside the perfect mastery of the black. The romantic vein was represented pro designs infested with laces, abullonadas sleeves, Victorian necks and averages adorned with spangles. At the end of the collection the impact of fourteen night suits of a red aggressive one and of a spectacular effect.
A detail emphasized in the Cibeles was the designers' strong presence. Without “quotas,” but with the force of his steadfastness and his work, have landed in the Footbridge many feminine names with different targets and trajectories. Miriam Ocáriz, which opened the parades of the first day, created a good collection with very well planned volumes that they were passing to romantic elements: big knots, pleated frills, skirts lightly abullonadas, pants cigaret and important sleeves. Ághata Ruiz de la Prada triumphed with his coloring and his ingenuous icons and especially with an important innovation: his phosphorescent tones will shine on the snow with his models for ski.
The note most emphasized from the collection of Amaya Arzuaga there were the novel used materials that were going from the purest plastic to the horse hair, quite inside an ambience between romantic and futurist. Carmen March looked for the inspiration in the Spanish painting along the history: the Greek one, Velázquez, Sorolla, there were some of his points of reference to a collection that thinks about how - according to words of the designer - to embellish first of all the woman. The garment was the pledge it covers with stars of the collection of Lydia Delgado with very original asymmetric cuts and sleeves lantern or abullonadas and the employment of miscellanies of textiles like the wool with the level one and the sateen.
Alma Aguilar stood out with his garments of ancient air with hit mix of dull and brilliant blacks and very worn out pledges. Kina Fernández played with the superpositions, with a few tailors pants impeccable and the union of the black with the blue or the brown. Maria Lafuente passed between the Bohemian coloring of Gustav Klimt and the craft of delicate drawings realized with beads and small pieces of copper. Juana Martin desmarcó of his exuberant folklorism and a marvelous step met at the head on a collection very well constructed in the one that was feeling the inspiration Balenciaga.
FUTURISM À LA CARTE
Between the quarry of young designers who parade in the Footbridge we emphasize the collection of Locking Shocking of a perfect unit and coherence. Ann and Oscar, two components of the duo, worked with materials that demand a completely handmade seam as there are the metallized poplin or the fringe of human hair. His models of galactic air mixed the gilding and the silver with the target in layers, Levites bloomers and gabardines. David Delfín and Carlos Diez looked as the success is habitual in cultural or theatrical demonstrations. José Miró combined the classic textiles: wool, it sedates velvet with technical textiles of last generation. His coloring climbs from the ground: beig, cream, brown up to the firmament with the gray and blue in the night.
The air of High fashion that took in many designers drew also between some of our young promises. Olive Juanjo re-lived through the spirit Saint Laurent with his big knots and the leading role of a few long overcoats of sateen and night garments adorned with marabús. The award to the best collection of the young designers relapsed into The Thin Buil two girls who flooded the footbridge of oversize pledges and fringe in continuous movement.