BARCELONA AND THE FASHION
For: Mª José F. Serra
Bread and Butter
Cibeles Fashion Week
Footbridge 080 Barcelona
The farewell of Barcelona of the fashionable fair "Bread and Butter" has propitiated a wide debate and up to a "buried war" between different agencies of communication that foresee the urgent need to do another of integration lounge that fills the gap that has created the "stampede" of the German fair. If it should be be the final score we would think that "every cloud has a silver lining" whenever they look for more attentive formulae to the value of the industry of the fashion that in satisfying political interests that have eroded the image of Barcelona as fashionable modality.
If we dive in the history of the Spanish fashion we will discover easily the wide tradition that has had Barcelona in fashionable fairs corresponding to his position emphasized inside the textile sector. If we go back to the origins we will see that it was in Barcelona where there was started, already in the year 1941, the “First Lounge of the Spanish Fashion” in the dome of the Coliseum and that the immediate precedent of the current fair declarations was the Fair of Barcelona “national Lounge of the Fashion in Dressing” in the year 61, engine of other interesting initiatives as for example the Lounge of Fashion Mediterranean that was celebrated in the Real Dockyards and that there was including in his parades a pret - to-porter” select and creatively.
In the year 84 there was born the Lounge Gaudi, imitated later by Cibeles, which in addition to assembling to signatures of big solvency inside the Spanish fashion, promoted the cultural and artistic facet of Barcelona that has always been a city hundred for avant-garde hundred and of big cultural expectations. About the Gaudi there begun being organized cycles of Movies and Fashion and there was born also “Circuit“ that tried to fuse the fashion, the art and the music.
Although they continued and other fashionable activities of certain importance keep on working in Barcelona, an erratic politics of the Catalan institutions began to the fret the Gaudí to center all his support and all his hopes on the Fair “Bread and Butter” that now has returned to his origins and has left Barcelona in an uncertainty situation. The closing Gaudí propitiated that many Catalan designers were irritating Cibeles as logical consequence. In a celebrated press conference recently, a journalist asked the Director of the Footbridge Cibeles and Madrid Fashion Week, Pretty Sun porch, if the last Catalan "acquisition" of the Cibeles - the designer Antonio Miró - had been invited to inform particularly and the director answered that so much It Looked as others of prestige that had come to Cibeles they had done it on proper initiative. Everything makes to suppose that they looked for other more realistic and possible horizons...
In a few days – from March 16 until March 18 - 080 will open his doors the Footbridge Barcelona. They have announced that in this edition it will present 29 independent designers opposite to the 16 of the previous one, and demonstrate real avidity of a major consolidation, but it does not also seem clearly clear that this Fair is going to promote like successor of the Gaudí, since the Town hall insists that different possibilities are fighting. Jordi Hereu, mayor of Barcelona, has promised that the city of a count will have “a new fashionable lounge this year” and that it has a big interest in the project “because in this sector we have big assets that we have to extract forward”.
What yes is absolutely necessary is that they are the professionals and experts of the sector those who decide the future orientations because it has been demonstrated since the protectionisms of political sign and with distinctly nationalistic dyes there are a remora that it is necessary to try to avoid. It is enough to send only to the declarations that Carod Rovira did in the last Gaudí together with the propositions of suppressing what was not written in Catalan language and other absurd limitations to admit the participants. In this sense and, taking 080 as a reference point Barcelona, there are not very encouraging the declarations of Enric Alcoy, secretary Gral. of the Department of Innovation, Universities and Companies of the Generalitat of Catalonia, before the raised question if a designer of the rest of Spain can take part, since the classification that has been done between “Catalan / resident and international” it would not leave place to them … unless we understood Spain like the foreigner.” According to Alcoy they should enter the "international" paragraph.
These declarations make to be afraid that we can return to “the walked ones”. We wish that, once and for all, there should be imposed this big common sense that has the Catalan village but of which not always his leaders make a show unfortunately. The “German stampede” can lead us to considering where there are the bases from which it is necessary to depart. If the future proposals to implant a solid footbridge in Barcelona do not allow to be asphyxiated by narrow and exclusive mentalities it is sure that Barcelona might occupy again with brightness the important position that corresponds to him in the Spanish fashion and the international projection that can flow of his cultural and avant-garde baggage.