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HOMAGE TO MADELEINE VIONNET, PURIST OF THE FASHION
For: Gemma Piñana
Madeleine Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
She was an innovator both in the field of the high fashion and in the social one. It liberated the body of the woman with a clothing that was leaving at sight the natural forms of his silhouettes, with a supreme refinement. Madeleine Vionnet (1876 - 1975) is a paradigm of the history of the fashion of the XXth century, a designer who could see the importance of the creativity in the art of dressing and who donated to the Parisian Museum of Decorative Arts of Paris the majority of his patrimony, conscious of that must be preserved, that's why the institution offers him now a homage with the same pieces that it donated.
Vionnet was making to parade to his manikins without corset and with the naked feet so that they were showing the gracilidad of the feminine figure and to recover his natural forms. In this sense it was revolutionary, as well as in the attention to his employees of workshops in twenty workshops which he had, since it offered them the service of dentist and of gynecology. The designer revolutionized also the world of the embroideries on having asked the professionals for a new way of carrying out them to embellish his pieces. It was said that Madame Vionnet was with his investigation in the fashion that far like the cubists in the painting.

Neither more nor less than 122 garments, 750 pieces of cloths and bosses, 75 álbumes photographic of copyrights, original drawings, books of accounts and books of his personal library constituted the fabulous donation of Madeleine Vionnet, the seamstress who was employed intensely in the French capital for a cosmopolitan clientele at the period understood between two world wars of 1914 and 1939. In fact it stopped being employed the year at that exploded the last one. From this moment one devoted himself to give design courses to the new generations.

Couturiers' seamstress
It has called her itself “a couturiers' Seamstress” because Vionnet pleases to many of the most recent and bold creators in the refinement how they are John Galliano, Issey Miyake, Yophji Yamamoto, Azzedine Alaia. She learned with the sisters Caillot and with Jacques Doucet. His establishment decorated to the style Decó took place, firstly in Rue Rivoli and later in the Avenue Montaigne where the most distinguished clientele was going.

The exhibition is a wide retrospective with well preserved and restored works, like the red cartel on which it shows a beautiful exact black garment to the body and on which transparent other superposes of organza with lorzas that conceals and promotes at the same time the silhouette of the first one.

Place: 
Museé d'Arts Decoratives - Paris
Exhibition until January 31, 2010


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