THE DARKEST GLAMOR OF THE GOTHIC THING
For: Writing ASMODA
Jean Paul Gaultier
The Age of the Gothic, in the Middle Age, after the irruption of the Goths or barbarian peoples, in contrast with the civilized Rome, has never been an obscurantism sign: it is rather the period in which the beautiful and luminous Gothic cathedrals were erected, the centers of culture were blooming in the monasteries and were starting the incipient universities, which were agglutinating the knowledge. Nevertheless, to speak about the Gothic thing in the field of the fashion, evokes the symbols of a dismal subculture, of dark colors and skulls.
The same macabre spirit is the one that has been gathered in the first exhibition dedicated to the Gothic, titled fashion "Gothic: Dark Glamor", that appears in the museum of Fashion Institute of Technology of New York until February 21, 2009.
It is true that the images of death and corruption, the dark thing and the macabre thing, so celebrated in the Romanticism of the XIXth, it has been an inspiration source for many artists, writers, and now also for the designers. John Galliano, of Dior, for example, has described his “Gothic girl” as “anxious, avant-gardist, vamp and mysterious”. Alexander McQueen, Ricks Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy have created designs to describe how they see the Gothic fashion. And they have been inspired in the charm, the lugubrious nineteenth-century cemeteries, the black pest, “memento I died” and the looks of the north of the medieval Europe.
In the FIT, the skulls and skeletons, the vampires, the signs related to the death and flowing of the time, like scythes and masks of the death, reproduce in proper jewels of the Victorian mourning: pendants, earrings and bracelets. Also there are exhibited singular pieces as a hat of glass with the image of a bat, as well as veils with skeletons of birds and mortuary jewels of the XIXth century. The black epoch garments are showy along with current designs, in silk, which there look like shreds of blood and shrouds shreds.
The exhibition is structured in diverse topics, which are covered like a labyrinth of the terror: Mourning and Lamentations, Castle in Ruins, Pleased House, Cemetery, in the Night, Strange Beauty, Cavern of the Vampire and Office of Curiosities. The dismal music and the game of lights helps to ambientarse.