A WINTER “OF OVERCOAT”
For: Mª José F. Serra
Victorio and Lucchino
The overcoat manages epatar to all his substitutes to be the indisputable winter king again. It signs up to the new proportions and volumes and does not avoid the most chic details not more bold that it marks the fashion. The most classic textiles or the most avant-garde fibres turn into his Allied Forces. Everything joins to give a new look to the overcoats 2010, capable of defying any climate change.
The new proportions that reign in the fashion show us overcoats with clear influence of the 80s but with the thinnest and sharp-pointed shoulder pads than in this decade that so much weighs in the tendencies of this year. The sleeves are more wide and the waist is marked by accurate cuts or by an elegant belt.
A triumphal comeback that will fill with enthusiasm the most classic is that of the overcoats color camel in different lengths with belts that they include from the width of a corselete up to the thinnest belt. It has crossed them, of military style and others that, making use of the biggest largeness of the sleeves, introduce some details of impact as a few muffs with an animal print. The superclassic cashmere overcoats and with more marked shoulders they keep on offering his impeccable image.
Very comfortable and adaptable to any set, we find the overcoats style beat without buttons, with a belt knotted to the waist and the short overcoats over-size of spongy and light cloths as the tweed on narrow pants.
The designers have printed on the overcoats his personal image, like that we see them with enormous revers in Louis Vuitton, with necks chimney in Max Mara, short and carved with frills in the tail in Center Armani and with sophisticated revers in some models of Victorio and Lucchino. For the night Valentino fills the overcoats of frills and pens.
The skins of long hair, so to the last one, find in the overcoats a marvelous form of expression. Dolce and Gabbana show them in different tones from the discreet brown to a pink fluorine to illuminate the night. The astrakhan skin shows itself also in the overcoats; his leather image for “ladies“ remains overcome with the juvenile tone of the superlong boots as Gucci and Fendi present it. Hermès has given in his collection a maximum importance to the both long and short overcoats in very worn out leather, in lacquer or in a fantastic skin of crocodile.
The trench takes part also of the success of the overcoats. Following the slogans of the fashion it gives them even some touches of innovation and glamor that break his tradition of superclassic piece. Burberry presents a trench with pleating in the back and Max Mara inclines for the living tones. Always to emphasize also the success of the most functional and sports overcoats as them “boy friend” recta, with wide sleeves and double set of buttons and in general with a slightly carefree look grunge or the comfortable and light quilted overcoats in living colors and in different lengths resistant to the water and to the cold.