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For: José F. Serra
Ángel Schlesser
Ann Locking
Ángel Schlesser
Olive Juanjo
Javier Larrainzar
Ángel Schlesser
The French called it "the petite steals to nongo", the Englishmen have translated it as "little black dress" and the Spanish we might call him "the black vestidito" but, in any language, this pledge continues like an essential must of the wardrobe, like the quintessence of the essential elegance and like a basic pledge that has been able to adapt itself to all the changes of the fashion. With a few touches or long or suitable accessories, I cut, it keeps on being a basic one of sure success in the year 2009.
Coconut Chanel was his creator and his "petite steal to nongo" it was called in the 30s by the American press "Ford of the fashion". Since many others of his creations this idea of Chanel was supercopied, but Cocó was not reacting before this copies proliferation as he was declaring to the magazine Harper's Bazaar "If it was not for my not official assistants “mesdames they copistes:” Where would go the ladies who want my models and to which I cannot like?".

In the 30s "petite steal to nongo" it turns into the favorite suit for a new-born custom: the cocktail. In this epoch it demonstrates his preference to the necklines in the back, for textiles like the silk or the crepe and search like ideal accessory the pearls strings. At the end of the 40s the movies presents a black garment that would become famous: that of Rita Haywoord in Gilda, with neckline bathtub, and a simple and structured line.

In the 50s "the petite steals to nongo" it begins to be part of the architectural creations of Balenciaga that allow him the most varied forms and in the 60 it reaches a new success with the model designed by Givenchy for Audrey Hepburn in the movie "Breakfast with diamonds". In the 70 the black becomes an avant-gardist and there triumphs wrapped up by the movement punk that has his headquarters in the London shops of King's Road. Between the baroque exuberance of the 80 the soap operas of success as "Dallas" or "Dynasty" dress his protagonists in black cocktail suits.

As reaction to the barroquismo of the previous decade arises the minimalism of the 90 and the black garment signs up to this tendency with a few special characteristics: made in subtle organza or with lace adornments. Placed already in the present we see as in his last collections Karl Lagerfeld keeps on presenting the model fetish of the House, "the petite steals to nongo", that will invent one day Coconut Chanel.

The Spanish designers continue also signing up to "petite steal to nongo" and we emphasize his most guessed right creations. Alma Aguilar in version holiday with leggins and a spangles stripe in under, Carmen March without sleeves and with a belt with tacks of brown and golden tones, Juanjo Oliva proposes a skirt model with wide flights and comes to the most absolute sophistication adorning low of the garment with a pens stripe, Larraínzar with transparent sleeves and belt and silver handles, Ann Locking resorts to the sateen for a long suit of simple line, Situated Murt combines it with purple gloves and Angel Schlesser is the one that gives him more game: with short and flared sleeves, combining lacquer with gauze, rectum, with long gloves and with the subtle game of the muslin for a night suit.

Already in the plane of the personal fashion design if you want to extract the maximum divided to you "petite steal to nongo" bear in mind the following thing:

It chooses a few suitable accessories. For cocktail or in the night "petite steal to nongo" it keeps on rhyming to the perfection with his favorite accessory: the pearls necklace. Also with the belts adorned with stones of colors, with a pashmina of an intense color and with a few sandals with stiletto. There him go the jewels and costume jewelry of big size and it is a marvelous shop window for the brooches and necklaces of ethnic type.

In general it is possible to break the monotony of the black with a jacket, a few gloves a few averages shoes or a purse of a living color – red, purple - and to give him an urban air or more sport to combine it with a leather huntress, a few air boots rokero or a few colors.

It is necessary to be able to make use of the big versatility of "petite steal to nongo". The same model can change completely according to the occasion with a different belt or a cravat of colors. His enormous adaptation capacity does that we could find it in the boutiques of the big designers – as in Chanel, his origin point - or in shops of big scope like Zara.

Essential! It needs a makeup of happy tones and turns out to be phenomenal with the lips identical with a red vibrant one.
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> PARIS, HIGH FASHION 2010  February, 2010
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