SOUL AGUILAR: IN THE FIRST LINE OF CIBELES
For: Josefina Figueras
It is considered to be one of the most solid young values of the Spanish fashion. Alma Aguilar, this designer of simple dealing and natural aspect, will parade next month in the Footbridge Cibeles in an individual pass, a privilege that only the most emblematic creators have. Hippie - elegance prepares soul now his new collection that she qualifies of “romantic and feminine inside a style”
In his shop - workshop of the selective passage of Jorge Juan, Soul speaks to me about his not so distant memories, about his first worries for the art, for the drawing that ended up by being praised soon by the fashion. He studied Design and Designing and in the middle of his practices in the ateliers of some designers it saw very clear what he wanted to do.
“It was in the practices period, the designer with whom it was working asked me I to have left one more time and soon I decided to throw my own collection. It had then 22 years. I thought that it was not risking very much. It would be a question of a modest collection and if the things were going out badly it was always on time of keeping on working like free-event or with another designer, but in any case it would have the opportunity to live through a useful experience”.
- How did it turn out to be this first experience?
Very good. The collection pleased and I obtained six points of sale in Spain, some of which are still supported by me. When it began the real difficulty it was in the second collection, it had to make her compatible with my deliveries to six clients, but I surrounded myself with a team of the very good people and continued in the breach.
- What are your favorite pledges, your most typical designs?
What more I like doing there are the garments and the overcoats, especially a species of summer gabardines that are a half an overcoat and dressed way and also the models of point easy to go at any time of the day.
- there is some designers, like Balenciaga, or Modesto Lomba that they are capable of designing and of constructing a model from the beginning up to the end: How do you intervene in the process of the production of a model?
My entire intervention is in the creative process. I do my sketches, spend them to clean, choose the textiles, do the technical illustration of the sketches and I give them to the patronista so that it realizes the pattern. On this first toile I correct the details that it seems to me, generally I do not do further away, although I would be capable of doing the pattern also and of sewing the toile, but the last dressmaking of the pledge, no. To me to one give very well to sew to hand, to invent, to draw
- in the Creators' Association of the Fashion of Spain figuraís only five women, the fifth part of his components: Why everywhere and in other countries with fashionable tradition is this disparity between the number of designers men and women?
It turns out to be curious, but it is like that. In my class, when he was studying, already there were many other boys than girls. I believe nevertheless that every time it will be balancing more, but the history till now accuses this difference; it is true that famous names have existed like Coconut Chanel, but there is neither a comparison nor much less. Equality does not exist in the creative part, nevertheless the workshops there are full of patronistas women who dominate better than anybody the technical part.
- What fashion do you like more personally the French, the Italian, the American...?
My darling is the French, I see it with a more cultural facet. The Italian has always been many quality, especially “pret to porter” but what I like doing, which is the way between the reproducible and the not reproducible, is alike more the French who can adorn the pledges and make them almost exclusive.
- your name has appeared in the extinguished Footbridge Gaudí and in the Footbridge Cibeles: do you believe that it is very important to appear in one of these platforms a prestige to be worked inside the Spanish fashion?
I have been in the two because it looks like to me an essential step. It is absurd that someone who wants to have a minimal representation is not. Also the real thing is that nothing changes because you continue the same work rhythm: you present two collections and the sales period starts internationally at the same time, but to be in these footbridges is like the morello cherry of the cake, a nice reward to a hard period and it is a way of exhibiting the very good collection because it provides to you books of photos and very useful videos to be able to move commercially with major facility
- Which are your most immediate projects, your next targets?
First to finish my collection autumn - winter 2008-2009 for Cibeles and the creation of the second line Alma Aguilar a more commercial collection, more of street with which I try to come to more public and also my "mini" collection directed to girls between the size 2 and 6.
- And on a global scale?
I am excited very much by the project to be part of a show room fashionable Spanish in New York, an initiative of the Chamber of Cio.
- Does he suppose many advantage to start so young in the fashion as it was you who have done?
I believe that it is a big advantage. You learn of your own errors and the younger you are the more prompt you recover of the guantazos.
- How do you see the Spanish fashion facing the future?
I see that we are obtaining every time a major personality and autonomy. In other moments certain part of the Spanish fashion, with a view to being more commercial, was devoting itself to receive the international tendencies, to do a miscellany of all this and to sell it here, but it did not have a Spanish stamp, it was not original. Now we are moving away of all the tendencies the just thing and the true thing the fact is that the young designers we are obtaining points of sale in Italy, Japan and the United States. Perhaps let's see the “Made in Spain” like one day there was seen “Made in Italy”, perhaps I had us to live soon through a few golden years. We have a seam tradition and I hope that they should come very good years.
- I hope be right....