FASHION AUTUMN - WINTER: THE BLACK TRIUMPHS
For: Mª José F. Serra
The footbridges have yielded to his elegance. The black is omnipresent in the collections of Paris, Milan, New York. Also it one of his favorites has declared the Spanish fashion. It is already not only the color of the most dressed hours but sandal attends all the fields of the fashion. Of course, where it is more in his sauce it is when it gets together with embroideries, pleating or brilliant accessories.
There are many who think that when the women dress of black it is for serviceability or insecurity, because on the black it costs everything. It is not necessary to think very much the combinations of colors, the accessories. To handle other colors it is necessary to turn to the head, to make work the fantasy, to appeal to the good taste and … to run the risk of being wrong. The black stylizes the silhouette, does not get dirty and with a renewed accessory it serves for every hour of the day.
Nevertheless his massive presence in the footbridges opens a question: Why do the designers propose it with so much frequency and in regular periods? Also in his case is it necessary to put like hypothesis, the serviceability, the insecurity and therefore a fall of the creativity and of the fantasy not to be wrong in every collection? The true only thing is that the black is more present than never in the fashion autumn - winter
Between the Spanish designers the black triumphs completely. Elio Berhanyer says that there is one of his favorite tones a.Ha reproduced in his collection “the petite should steal to nongo” with laces and spangles. Also it has given him preference in his night velvet suits, sometimes with the burning detail of a red flower. And he has chosen it for his lace models.
Modesto Lomba uses the black for his mini-garments with adornments of bonds and with averages also black. Antonio Pernas confirms it sometimes with the red one and Angel Schlesser combines it with the gray lead in his sateen patterns. Lydia Delgado joins it in his patterns with the target and Miguel Palacio presents it like color protagonist of his minigarments with air sesentero.
One of the biggest fans of the black is Roberto Torretta, at least in his collection autumn - winter 97-08. It has used it for his material "covers" the leather with stars, sometimes engraved imitating the crocodile and for his pants cigaret, jackets, huntresses, Levites, all pledges ponibles and commercial. Victorio and Luccino have given to the nego a look rokero with jackets carved with wide belts adorned with pieces of golden metal and in the short garments with lentetuelas averages. Olive Juanjo of the leading role of the night and Juana Martin, forgetting his coloristic and folkloric whims of other times, does the black of the black the almost absolute protagonist of his collection recalling the voluminous forms of Balenciaga in wool, jacard and embroideries.
In the footbridges of Paris the black has triumphed in the Chanel collections, a name always joined the “fourreau black” like symbol of elegance and distinction and Lagerfeld has turned it not only into a strong number of the night suits, but also into the perfect miscellany for his textiles crow's foot with other contrast colors. Up to designers as "coloristic" as Chirstian Lacroix hen yielded to his elegance and they have presented it not only for the night but also for overcoats and short garments with the highest boots. Lacroix defines it this way “The black is neither happy nor sad. It is attractive, elegant, perfect and indispensable”
The Italian fashion has yielded also to the delight of the black. Rocco Baroco has impregnated it the orientalism black, has joined the beig in some overcoats to pictures and has presented tailors of velvet and twinkles of brilliant black on opaque night suits. Also Armanai, Soprano Krizia and other designers of the first line have come to the black for his most significant models.
The doubt stays floating. Is it a simple question of delight, lacking in creativity or … that the panorama of the world does not give for many coloristic happy moments? In any case the true thing is that from those distant times of the century XVl when it was the color of the elegance and the Spanish abstinence and was triumphing in all the European courts up to today the black continues with his aureole of the color of the elegance without fissures.