FASHION AND FREEDOM
For: Mª José F. Serra
“The fashion of the XXIst century means the victory of the freedom”. The French couturier Emmanuel Ungaro said this phrase a little in an emphatic way, in an interview. The fashion, in his holders and slogans, has been nourished in infinity of occasions of the aureole, almost magic, which surrounds the word liberate because there is no prerogative of the person so important as that of feeling free, proprietor of his acts, of his ideas and of his projects.
What will not it have said and written on the freedom? Here the interpretations and adulterations have found a wide action field. There is not any more that to consult the Dictionary of the language of the Spanish Royal Academy to see the different meanings that can happen to the concept of freedom, so praised and sometimes so badly interpreted. I remain with two of the most significant definitions. He says the first “faculty that the man has of acting of a way or of other one, and not to act, therefore he is responsible for his acts”. We read further on “Wild contravention of the laws and good customs“. The last one, certainly so in vogue, might be translated by a “freedom without limits”, an interpretation that was equipping it to a detached independence. The pure and hard enthronement of the relativism and the subjetivismo opposite to the objective laws.
The false approach of the freedom leads some to thinking that in the artistic horizon of the fashion there are no limits, that the only thing that matters, at the time of designing there are the arguments of originality, innovation or spectacular surprise. The postulates of an individualistic society have helped to organize to certain sectors of the current fashion with a rejection of the ethical laws and up to esthetics. Some fashionable currents, as some currents of modern art, want to place the supremacy of the individual freedom over all the preexisting norms and impose ways and styles subjugating laws and customs, in accordance with his excessive code of the freedom.
There was saying Saint Exupery that “the man costs according to the number and the quality of his ties” and these ties - ethical and esthetic - cannot remain in the ditch at the time of doing fashion as in any other aspect of the human conduct. The designer who does without ties and criteria to take refuge only in what attracts attention, in the provocative and ostentatious thing, dazzled by the magic of a false freedom, will be located in the parameters of an empty fashion of content and poured out to contribute to the building of a society without values.
Handling the freedom from his position of fashionable consumer, the woman must act also with criterion and common sense not to contribute to the ceremony of the confusion. At present the multiplicity of models and styles diversifies and psicologiza the garment. The woman is free to look for an image, a style that agrees with his way of seeing the life, with his beliefs, with his vision of the world and of the society. This “freedom of option” is precisely one of the best prerogatives that offers him the current fashion. He would be wrong if he was using this possibility to look only for the originality epatante, the non-conformism, the eccentricity and the exhibition of the body.
The extract of the elegance – that comes of eligens, to choose - consists in dressing in accordance with an image balanced between the interior and the exterior, without fissures or schizophrenias of the appearance. Without the tyranny of a few false liberating values.