FASHION AND WOMAN: A PERFECT AGREEMENT
For: Mª José F. Serra
Helen Stetskovitch inspired by Coconut Chanel
Yves Saint Laurent
Why has the fashion always had a feminine point of view although most of the numbers one of the international fashion continue being men? A personage so experienced on these questions like John Fairchild, the publishing director of “Women's Wear Daily", was answering this question saying that everything creative one needs a muse, a woman by whom being inspired. Because the common sense, the "feeling" of what she demands in every moment is basic for the success of one models or of a collection.
It is easy to verify that the woman has done always very good crumbs with the fashion, because she has a major capacity for the concrete thing, for the immediate present. Nevertheless the binomial “fashion - woman“ has been overcome in other epochs by the binomial “fashion - man“. The fashion, in the beginning of his history, was used by the men to emphasize his hierarchy, his virility, his social status. It is significant that the heels Luis XV were designed for a short king of height and that often the ornamental excesses repudiated even by the laws, were led by the masculine sex.
When Charles Worth inaugurated the epoch of the High fashion, it turned this one into sanctum of the feminine thing. Although the later couturiers presented collections for man and this tendency has been growing throughout the years, there are the collections for woman those that give category to the big signatures and to the stylists and those that reach major presence in the mass media. The glamor of the night suits, the whole esthetics of the seduction, they give to the fashion a sign of flagrant femininity.
This does not mean that the fashion woman has not passed also for the river beds of comfortable and functional styles. Coconut Chanel, considered to be a moderate feminist, was going on with his ironies to the overloaded fashion and of luxurious appearance and simultaneously it was becoming united of the way of dressing of a woman who was reaching every day positions of major responsibility inside the society and who needed for his life and his work more comfortable clothes. “I have installed the freedom in the body of the women – he was saying - Those checkers were sweating under the corset, the brads, the linings and the fillings. The woman was a pretext for the wealth and I finished with that one”.
The new currents of the current feminism fashion and woman have influenced in the expositions of the relation. Now the woman assaults the professional power with a few proper qualities, without looking for the equality with the male, but putting the emphasis on the value of the difference. If the woman triumphs today in the world of the business it is, according to opinion of the sociologists, because now there are valued more a few qualities that earlier were minusvaloradas: intuition opposite to aggressiveness, capacity of detail opposite to abstraction, creativity opposite to logic, imagination opposite to pragmatism.
The current woman, under the concept of the new femininity and even of a new feminism, can allow herself the luxury of incorporating into his closet pledges of masculine origin whenever his personal mood, his manners and even his positions do not destroy the unquestionable bet for the diversity of the appearance. Saint Laurent was affirming: "A woman is never capable of turning out to be more feminine that when it dresses clothes that is not destined for her” This way there were born his famous "tailor - trousers" of rigorous beauty and his 25 versions of the feminine tuxedo. A few creations that are much removed from the image and from the unfortunate outfits of the first and radical feminists who were looking for the equality with the male.
Recognized like inspiring maxim of the fashion, the creators notice that now the woman is in the first line, that the professions in which they emphasize sound to that a better future is augured to them. The woman - object has happened to be a sad caricature, although some designers get into debt in offering still in his footbridges models exhibitionists and vulgar so discordant with the role that she redeems in the society. The agreement “fashion and woman” must answer to the formulae that the new modernity demands.