YOU PRESCRIBE ANTI-CRISIS
For: Josefina Figueras
Jean Paul Gaultier
The shade of the crisis has penetrated: how not? in the world of the fashion … but there have arisen voices of those who believe in the enormous power of the creativity and the work to frighten the bad auguries. The big ones of the High fashion of Paris have tried desdibujar the bogey of the crisis exceeding sumptuousness and coming to his most spectacular and creative resources to demonstrate that the crisis does not go with them. Will they have obtained it? At the moment we have at sight his illusion and his courage.
Recently a writing of Albert Einstein has come to my hands the famous German scientist discoverer of the theory of the relativity (1879-1955) in which he speaks about his vision on the crises. His words receive a big actuality “The crisis he says Einstein in the first paragraphs - is the best blessing that him can happen to persons and countries because the crisis brings progresses. The creativity is born of the anxiety like the day is born of the dark night. It is in the crisis that there is born the inventiveness, the discoveries and the big strategies”
In the Week of the High fashion of Paris an exceptional designer, Christian Lacroix, has presented a collection with only 24 models. It is the extreme face of the crisis. Lacroix has had to resort to jewels and given shoes and to textiles given for his sober collection in the museum of Decorative Arts. But the French designer in the middle of this distressing panorama commented: "The crisis has sharpened my famine of High fashion, of creation. I do not understand anything of managerial fiddles. I am a creator and I it will be up to my death”. In accordance with this theory the footbridge concluded with a spectacular lace fiancée garment in the remost loaded white gold splashed with yellow, red and blue flowers, that it was looking like a baroque reredos, and that there shone one of the manikins to whom he accompanied Lacroix thrilled between the fondness and the fervent applauses of the public.
Another creator, Jean Paul Gaultier, after his collection inspired by the movies with recreations of Mae West and Rita Hayworth joined luxurious scraps oriental with embroidered cloths and precious stones declared “The crisis is a propitious time to create new ways of doing the things”. A designer who begins standing out strongly in the panorama of the Seam, Gustavo Lins, was affirming on having finished his parade: "The means economy is what it helps to create”.
The recipes anti-crisis have been much changed between the big creators. Giorgio Armani, who presented his collection in a cellar of the Square of Trocadero in search of the modernity, was declaring: “Do less garments sell? It is clearly that if, but of this industry many other things are nourished”. And to demonstrate his good fortitude just after the parade and without going out at least of the Trocadero it was presenting to the public his new perfume “Idole“.
Other creators have resorted to his "glorious" origins as it is the case of Jhon Galiano. This year has done without the spectacular stages to present his collection in “petit committee” in the shop of the signature Christian Dior de la Avenue Montaigne. The parade was opened by the legendary model “Bar“ with adornments of inlaid jewels and the collection was sick to us to the ambience of “new look” with his tight waists and his wide skirts hollowed by the cancan. The recipe anti-crisis of the House Dior puts the accent in the quality. His president Sidney Toledano was declaring “In the current context of economic crisis it is already not: What is there again? but: What is there better? For what it is necessary to look is the excellence in the product”
Karl Lagerfeld has created for Chanel a collection with a spectacular nature foreign to any idea of recession presented under the majestic glazed vault of Grand Palais, with black and white combinations, sheens and jewels. The Lagerfeld recipe is the value of the work. Before the insistent rumors of his retreat of the Seam the septuagenarian German designer has answered with an elegant and wonderful collection that it was facing all kinds of economic and personal crises “I have announced that I will die working” he has declared.
It is clear that the creativity does not give up. The High fashion, which fights against his particular crisis and tries to adapt itself to new cánones and systems more according to the new times, there is something from what he does not resign: to the value of the work, made good, to the enormous potency of the creation that adapts itself but that does not die.
All this seems to me much according to what Albert Einstein kept on saying in his lucubrations on the crisis “The real crisis, it is the crisis of the incompetence. Without crisis there are no merits. It is in the crisis where the best thing of each one outcrops, because without crisis all wind is a caress. To speak about crisis is to promote it and to be quiet in the crisis is to exalt the conformism. Instead of this let's work hard. Let's finish at once with the only threatening crisis, which is the tragedy her of not wanting to fight to overcome”.